Are You Hyperfixating On Your Skin? Here's What Derms Want You To Know About Clogged Pores

Repeat after me: Not all pores are clogged pores. While it's easy to look at your skin in a close-up mirror and assume all of your pores are clogged just because they're visible, that's not totally the case.

In an airbrushed world, we're made to believe that just because you can see small dots on your face they must be clogged, no? Well, no.

That being said, some folks are more prone to blackheads than others. And clearing out clogged pores before they turn into full-fledged breakouts is one of the best ways to manage acne.

Clogged pores start with oil buildup on the skin. This oil that you naturally produce is called sebum. Regulated sebum production is actually beneficial, as it keeps the skin moisturized. However, excess sebum is what leads to clogged pores, aka sebum plugs.

Because sebum is a sticky consistency, it easily clings to dirt and bacteria as well. When this clog is exposed to oxygen, it takes on a darker color—which is what makes blackheads different from non-exposed clogged pores.

Even the supermodels behind the airbrushed images do, in fact, have pores. The perfectionism in advertisements has contributed to the toxic narrative that having no visible pores at all is the goal, but that's simply impossible.

So before you try to use every exfoliating serum and extracting tool on the market in an effort to try to shrink your pores down to none, remember that they're completely normal. What's more, you're probably just hyperfixating on your skin.

Sitting in front of a magnified mirror for an hour trying to figure out how you can eliminate the look of real skin and achieve a flawless complexion isn't going to help you achieve something impossible. Not to mention, it's not good for your mental health.

And if you're getting wound up over whether or not your pores are clogged and how to fix it ASAP, remember that stress is one thing that actually can lead to breakouts—so take a deep breath for the sake of sanity and your skin.

Now that we've established the normality of having pores, let's go through a few best practices for managing clogged pores. It's worth noting that one method missing from this list is squeezing your pores—because it's not a best practice.

"You shouldn't squeeze clogged pores, as often this can lead to more inflammation, scarring, and risk of infection," board-certified dermatologist Marisa Garshick, M.D., FAAD, tells mbg. So before you get out your tools, remember that the chances of your clogged pores getting worse are higher than the chance of a quick squeeze doing any good.

Beta-hydroxy acids, also known as BHAs, are going to be your best bet when it comes to treating clogged pores. "Because BHAs are oil-soluble, they can penetrate deep into the pores and therefore are especially helpful at unclogging the pores and reducing excess oil," Garshick explains.

Alpha-hydroxy acids, or AHAs, are more of a preventive measure and help improve overall skin appearance. "AHAs, like glycolic or lactic acid, work to get rid of dead skin cells, which prevents the pores from becoming clogged," Garshick notes.

Not sure how to remember which acid does what? "You can think of it this way: AHAs work above (A for AHA and Above) the surface of the skin, whereas BHAs work below it (B for BHA and Below)," medical esthetician and founder of JTAV Clinical Skincare Joie Tavernise explains. 

You don't have to choose one or the other. In fact, using an exfoliating serum with a combination of the two acids is the most efficient way to keep the pores clear and maintain a smooth, dewy complexion at the same time.

"Clay and charcoal masks work by drawing out buildup such as debris and oil from pores," board-certified dermatologist Ramya Garlapati, M.D., tells mbg. This is why clay masks are often viewed as a deep cleanse for the skin.

However, these masks aren't for everyone. "They can be very drying, so it's best to limit using them to a few times per week, and they should also be used in caution in those with dry skin types," Garlapti adds.

While retinol is famous for healthy skin aging, it's incredibly beneficial for preventing clogged pores, too. "Retinol helps to improve skin cell turnover and clear away excess sebum, dead skin cells, dirt, and bacteria," board-certified dermatologist Rebecca Marcus, M.D., FAAD, explains.

What's more, "It also helps to normalize the sebaceous gland and regulate its secretions," Marcus says. So if your skin is on the oilier side, using a retinol serum or cream can help to regulate your oil production over time and prevent buildup.

Even when it comes to pore size, retinol can help make the pores appear smaller (though larger pores aren't anything to worry about).

Now let's talk about extractions. While you shouldn't take an extraction tool to your own skin DIY-style, it can be done by a professional. While you do know your skin better than anyone else, skin experts have proper tools, sanitation practices, and training to perform extractions in a safe and effective manner, which is why it's not as safe to do at home.

So if you're dealing with clogged pores more often than not, you may consider an acne facial. Beyond just extractions, acne facials also include topical treatments with ingredients like salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, tea tree oil, etc. 

Physical exfoliators like gentle scrubs can help to manually slough off dead skin cells, thus reducing the chance of getting a clogged pore. Plus, they offer instant positive results for your complexion.

"Physical exfoliation offers instant gratification, as dead skin cells and dirt are swept away during the treatment," board-certified dermatologist Jessie Cheung, M.D., founder of Cheung Aesthetics and Wellness previously told mbg.

For those with sensitive skin that cannot tolerate any of the above, enzyme masks or cleansers may be a better option to clear the pores.

"Enzymes can exfoliate and help to get rid of dead skin cells and in doing so, can help to improve the appearance of clogged pores and congestion of the skin," Garshick explains.

Hydrocolloid patches create a protective seal over the skin while absorbing excess fluid like sebum. "Hydrocolloid patches, particularly those that contain salicylic acid, may be helpful to address clogged pores," Garshick notes.

While these patches may be beneficial to temporarily improve the appearance of the pores, they don't necessarily prevent new breakouts from forming, Garshick adds.

Say you've tried all of the above and still struggle with clogged pores—it might be time to see an expert. "If you are trying over-the-counter products without improvement, experiencing dryness or sensitivity to products and having trouble finding the right products, or if any of your breakouts are leading to scarring, it can be helpful to see a dermatologist," Garshick explains.

Traditional, sticky black strips are not the same as hydrocolloid patches and may actually make the problem worse. "Hydrocolloid patches tend to be gentler than blackhead strips, whose adhesive can be damaging and disruptive to the skin barrier," Marcus explains.

When the skin barrier is compromised, your skin is more susceptible to bacteria and your oil production will be thrown off. Stick with the options above and skip the abrasive blackhead strips. Or make your own pore strips at home—here's how.