Winter Retinol FAQ: All Your Burning Questions Answered By Derms

It's no secret retinol is one of the top darlings of skin care, beloved by derms for its ability to enhance cell turnover, promote collagen production, even out hyperpigmentation, and so much more. But if you've recently embarked on your retinol journey, you're likely familiar with some of its common side effects: burning, irritation, dryness, and skin peeling, also dubbed the "retinoid reaction" or retinoid-induced dermatitis. 

And if you plan to use retinol during the winter? Those side effects may only become more clear: cold, wintry air, after all, can exacerbate dryness, peeling, and irritation. That's not to say you must tuck away your retinol until the weather finally thaws—you just have to be smarter about how you use it. 

"Actually, the answer here is a bit complicated," says Ciraldo. If you're having no trouble with your retinol (i.e., no irritation, redness, or peeling), then feel free to carry on with your usual routine. If you are facing increased irritation during winter, Ciraldo suggests first checking whether you're using a retinol or retinoid.

Retinol is strictly the OTC version, which means it's less potent and usually less irritating; retinoid, on the other hand, is the blanket term for the entire category of vitamin A derivatives, including both OTC and prescription-strength options—the latter of which can lead to more irritation.

That said, you may need to switch up the type of retinol you're using rather than resorting to a lower concentration. Perhaps find one that comes buffered with hyaluronic acid or ceramides, which can help mitigate some of that dryness. 

Well, it depends on the type of trip: If you're going on a quick trip to an area with a pretty stark climate change (like a ski trip, if you live in a less snowy area), Ciraldo recommends leaving your retinol at home.

"Your skin may take days to adjust to the new climate conditions, and I don't believe it's worth the downtime that may come with the climate adjustment," she explains. Similarly, "If you are planning a winter beach getaway, I'd leave the retinol home since you can develop sun sensitivity from it," she adds. 

Do not mix retinoids with AHAs and BHAs—not only can the ingredients inactivate each other, but the retinol and chemical exfoliator will be far too damaging for your skin. It will only result in more irritation. You also shouldn't use vitamin C (namely, L-ascorbic acid) and retinol at the same time, as this combo can also inactivate the ingredients. That's why derms recommend using vitamin C as your daytime active and retinol for nighttime repair.

Now, you can exfoliate on nights you don't use your retinol (assuming your skin can fully tolerate it); just make sure you take some nights off for skin recovery.

"It's like when you go to the gym, you need days to recover. The same thing holds true for the skin barrier and the microbiome," says board-certified dermatologist Whitney Bowe, M.D., on the mindbodygreen podcast. "You want to use a retinol? Go for it. You want to use an AHA, like glycolic acid? Go for it, but give yourself two nights off when you're just using nourishing, hydrating ingredients." 

It's a tricky question, considering dry skin around the nose can be caused by weather and skin care products, like retinol. "Environmental conditions like cold or dry air, cold wind, windburn, sunburn, or chronic sun exposure can all irritate the sensitive skin around the nose and cause dryness," board-certified dermatologist Raechele Cochran Gathers, M.D., tells mbg about the concern. She adds, "Retinoids, whether used for acne or wrinkles, can irritate the sensitive skin around the nose." 

In case you didn't know, you should apply retinol on clean, dry skin. "It is best to wait at least 10 minutes after cleansing before applying retinol if you have dry skin," says Ciraldo. "This will limit the risk of burning or irritation." Not to mention, applying on clean, dry skin helps the active better penetrate the skin cells. 

Now, this poses a bit of an issue if your main concern is skin dryness during the winter—for some, waiting 10 minutes before slathering on a moisturizer sounds like a recipe for cracked, scaly skin. That said, you can always find a serum that includes moisturizing ingredients or opt for a retinol moisturizer with a cream base. 

In addition to the sandwich method referenced above, you can also select a winter-friendly moisturizer to help mitigate any dryness. "Always, always, always use a moisturizer on top of your retinoid. For winter, you might want to use something a bit thicker and more occlusive," says Chan. See here for our favorite butter-thick options. 

If you have hypersensitive skin, you can also use your retinol as a wash-off mask—a concept known as short-contact therapy. Essentially: You cleanse your face, apply your retinol, leave it on for a few minutes, then wash it off before continuing with the rest of your skin care routine. "Less retinoid on your skin equals less irritation," says Chan.