Glycolic Acid: Benefits, How To Use It Correctly & Best Products

So you want to exfoliate your skin. Great! But before you go to town with scrubs and peels aplenty, you’ll want to weigh your formula options. Physical or chemical? Cleanser or serum? AHA or BHA? 

Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from plants (typically sugar-cane, pineapple, and beets). “Alpha-hydroxy acids are used for chemical exfoliation of the skin,” board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, M.D., reminds us. “They dissolve the bonds that hold dull, dead skin cells on the surface of the skin so the skin will gently shed, revealing smoother, brighter skin underneath.” 

By sloughing off dead skin cells and preventing clogged pores, glycolic acid can help keep acne at bay. 

Because it works on the surface (rather than penetrating into the pores; that'll be your BHAs), glycolic acid can slough off pigmented skin and encourage cell turnover.

“Last, one of the most beneficial qualities: Glycolic acid helps boost collagen production!” Says Idriss. “By promoting collagen synthesis, it can help improve skin elasticity and maintain that bounce in your skin.” 

Short answer? Any skin type can benefit from this AHA, but those with aging skin might find it particularly helpful, thanks to its collagen-stimulating abilities.

Even those with sensitive skin can still take part; although, you’ll want to be more mindful of the concentration. “Sensitive skin types should start with a lower percentage strength and slowly use products with glycolic acid weekly; its frequency of use and its strength can be increased as tolerated,” notes Jones. 

You can use glycolic acid in a variety of methods: an active cleanser, a mask, serum, toner, and the list goes on. How you use it will ultimately depend on personal preference. For instance, Jones and Idriss prefer wash-off products (like masks), while King loves a glycolic acid-soaked peel pad. “I think they make it easy to achieve an even application,” she explains. 

A wash-off product, however, can allow more sensitive skin types to reap the benefits of this AHA, sans irritation (since you aren’t leaving it on all night long). With a serum or toner, it’s easy for some to over-exfoliate, says Jones. “With a mask, you use it up to three times a week and will not go overboard,” she adds. 

No matter which product you choose, make sure to use it at night, since AHAs like glycolic acid can make skin more photosensitive.

It’s crucial that you don’t follow up with any harsh actives in your routine (even retinol), since glycolic acid is pretty strong. Stick to a gentle cleanser (unless that’s your preferred glycolic acid product), nourishing moisturizer, humectant serums, etc.   

You’ll also want to start low and slow with the AHA (i.e., a lower concentration one to two nights a week), working your way up to a regular cadence: The average person can handle two to three times a week, but make sure you know when your skin barrier has had enough.

Now, you might have heard whispers about glycolic acid chemical peels, which are one of the most common AHA peels used in dermatologists' offices. 

"Chemical peels can address a number of skin concerns. These include acne, uneven skin tone, blemishes, enlarged pores, melasma, dark spots from sun damage, and fine lines," says board-certified dermatologist Brendan Camp, M.D., FAAD, about the treatment.

Because they’re done in a clinical setting, professionals can use much stronger concentrations than an at-home solution. Think 40 to 50% compared to a 10 to 20% skin care formula.

“Yes, but I would not recommend using them at the same time in the routine,” says King. Some folks like to alternate exfoliating and retinol nights while introducing some recovery nights (focusing solely on hydration and skin barrier support) in between—this is a concept known as skin cycling. 

By exfoliating with glycolic acid first, you dissolve any dead skin cells that could get in the way of your next step; so when you use your retinol the next night, it will penetrate even deeper. 

“Now if you are a skin care veteran—meaning, you tolerate retinol well and have been using it for quite a long time—you can get away with using glycolic acid and retinol on the same night,” says Idriss. It’s not something we recommend unless you personally get the green light from a dermatologist, but it is technically possible.

“Absolutely! Glycolic acid and vitamin c are two essential ingredients needed in a routine to target hyperpigmentation,” says Idriss. You just might want to proceed with caution here, since some forms of vitamin C (namely, ascorbic acid) can be irritating for sensitive skin. 

Because glycolic acid has a smaller molecular size and penetrates more easily into the skin, that means it's a little more heavy-duty than some of the other AHAs. 

If you find glycolic acid irritating, you might want to opt for an AHA with larger molecules, like lactic acid or mandelic acid. “Or look for gentle formulations of glycolic acid that contain a low percentage combined with ingredients that soothe, hydrate, and support the skin barrier,” notes King. 

Even if you can tolerate glycolic acid, it is possible to overdo it: “Dryness, redness, irritation, and flaking can result from over-exfoliation with too much glycolic acid,” says King. Again, find your exfoliating sweet spot and stick to a schedule that works for your skin. 

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