Everything You Need To Know About The MVP Of Anti-Aging

Here we are, asking the retinoid question—again! Let me give you the straight answer: There is no straight answer. So let's focus on the other questions instead, and then you can see what feels right for you.

In skin care, vitamin A also has many names. Retin-A (tretinoin) is the name most people know and was the first, patented version of a cream containing retinoic acid. It was initially used to treat acne, with moderate success for many people but had the unexpected side effect of much younger-looking skin with long-term use. Can I get a cha-ching?

It turns out that retinoids do a lot of good stuff for your skin! Proven benefits (by many randomized, controlled, double-blind studies1) include the following:

Other ingredients alongside the retinoic acid can be more toxic than the retinoid itself. Most prescription products have parabens, ethoxylated ingredients, and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT). Commercial, nonprescription retinol products may also have fragrance, artificial colors, and petrochemicals. When your skin is deeply exfoliated, it is much more sensitive to sun. Retinyl palmitate, an over-the-counter vitamin A option and an ingredient in many sunscreens, may accelerate certain skin cancers. The evidence is inconclusive at present, but the EWG and the National Toxicology Program are not fans.

There are three options:

Only you can decide what's right for you. What's your priority? If you're out to decrease wrinkles and sun damage (and not considering pregnancy) then retinoid therapy is worth a try. If being totally nontoxic and natural is higher on your list, then most retinoid formulations are out, and you'll probably want to consider a botanical oil high in vitamin A and carotenoids.

Yes, but not to the same extent when it comes to skin appearance. That said, a diet high in carotenoids has been shown to decrease the risk of multiple cancers (breast, ovarian, colorectal, and cervical), and the incidence of certain eye diseases. So why not incorporate the dietary vitamin A no matter what you do with your skin? Don't go for the supplements, though—they carry a higher risk of toxicity and overdose.

For green beauty lovers who aren't afraid to give real retinol a try, Marie Veronique makes a retinol serum, and Goop makes a face cream with retinyl palmitate. YÜLI makes a serum with a plant-based "bio-retinol complex," and REN uses bakuchiol, a botanical extract with alleged retinol-like activity. RMS Beauty, Pai Skincare, and Osmia all make beautiful, organic oil serums with rosehip seed oil, rich in vitamin A and carotenoids.