Stop Dark Spots In Their Tracks With These Tried-And-Tested Tips

I recently returned from a weeklong trip to sunny California. On my return flight, I brought back a bottle of California Pinot Noir, a handmade ceramic mug, and in less exciting news, plenty of dark spots.

With my fair skin and love for the sun, this didn't surprise me—I've been freckle-prone my entire life. But thanks to my years of skin care knowledge, I managed to fade many of the discolored spots, revive my skin's elasticity, and replenish moisture, all within a week of returning to New York City.

First, a few things you should consider before spending a long day in the sun—be it swimming, hiking, or picnicking, etc.: 

1. Skip the retinol & chemical exfoliants

If you regularly exfoliate your skin or use retinol (both excellent for fine lines and skin texture), it's best to hold off before a sunny day.

These products can sensitize your skin, making it more prone to irritation and burns. While some people can use them in the days leading up to sun exposure without issue, it's safer to build up your skin barrier for a few days.

Instead of using these actives, rely on hydrating serums with ingredients like peptides, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid. Layer on a nourishing face cream (our favorite nourishing options here). This way, your skin's defenses will be well established before facing the sun.

2. Apply (reapply, and reapply again) SPF

It goes without saying: You should apply and reapply sunscreen throughout the day during long sun exposure. Dermatologists recommend reapplying every two hours if you're in direct sunlight, sweating, or swimming.

At the end of a long day in the sun, be sure to double-cleanse (using oil or micellar water before your water-based cleanser) to break down the stubborn SPF, especially if you're acne-prone.

Once you've spent your time outside (hopefully with a hat of some kind), it's time to kick into repair mode. Below, three steps to consider:

1. Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate

After sun exposure, your skin will naturally try to repair itself (what a magical organ!). Your job is to create a path of least resistance for optimal healing, starting with hydration. Use the barrier-supporting skin care routine you followed pre-sun for a day or two afterward as well.

You can also enhance your routine with a hydrating face mask. My favorites for this are the Danucera Master Mask and the First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Instant Oatmeal Mask.

2. Exfoliate (a few days later)

After a few days of skin TLC, you'll want to exfoliate. Dead skin buildup can occur, so removing it will reveal a fresh complexion and help prevent clogged pores.

You can choose a chemical exfoliant like a gentle mandelic acid serum or a more powerful multi-acid mask. Alternatively, you may opt for a physical exfoliant with soft granules, but it's best to avoid harsh salt scrubs on the face.

If you already have an exfoliating product you love, it's likely safe to use it a day or two post-sun exposure. However, if you have a sunburn, even a slight one, wait until the redness and sensitivity have fully subsided before exfoliating. When in doubt, patch test on your cheek.

3. Boost your collagen bank 

It's unfortunate that the sun depletes our collagen supply, but it's a truth worth addressing sooner rather than later. In fact, 80% of visible signs of skin aging stem from sun exposure1.

Coupled with the natural 1% annual decline in collagen production2 after your mid-20s and 30% decline3 in the first five years of menopause, skin aging can accelerate rapidly.

The unfortunate truth is that UV rays, as great as they feel, can damage your skin and accelerate visible skin aging.