A Thorough Guide To Co-Washing: What It Is + 5 Expert-Approved Tips

Curls, coils, and kinks need moisture, full stop. This poses a problem with shampoos as surfactants, the active ingredient that does the cleansing, are notoriously drying. This is even true of sulfate-free shampoos: Even though they are far more gentle than their traditional counterparts, they contain surfactants that can be overtly drying to delicate hairs. So for those with really dry hair, skipping shampoos actually may be the answer. 

As we've mentioned, co-washing is for those with drier hair types, notes Branch, which includes curls, coils, and kinks. "Textured hair requires extra moisture and hydration, and harsh shampoos can be damaging to curls," she says. 

Those with severely damaged hair—like damage, say, from heat, relaxing, or color processing—may also consider co-washing. "Those with weak hair, or anyone with chemically damaged hair may also consider co-washing," says Danielle Malary, owner of Lumiere Vive Salon.

First up, a proper co-washing product is different from the traditional conditions you might use if you're on the shampoo train. So once you've decided to go full co-wash, you'll need a product revamp. "The idea is to use conditioner, though not just any conditioner, as a replacement for shampoo. An ideal co-wash very gently cleanses the hair using mild surfactants while a typical shampoo uses more concentrated surfactants that really work to deeply cleanse the hair," says Malary.  

So this iteration of conditioner have the same hefty hydrators as a standard one, but it will also infuse minimal cleansing agents (so you're not just totally abandoning washing altogether). 

Hair washing is not an exact science, for anyone. In fact, there are many influencing factors at play (read more here). So the smartest thing you can do on your co-wash journey is to learn and pay attention to your own unique needs. 

And on that note, you may also find you need to fold in a shampoo as part of your co-washing routine—that's OK. (Co-washing isn't an all-in or all-out sort deal.) Because at the end of the day, you need to make sure you aren't leaving buildup on your scalp. "It's very important to deep cleanse your hair; it's just that many times it may not be necessary as frequently," notes Malary. 

At the end of the day, your co-washing routine will look entirely different from someone else's. That's because you need to get to know yourself and your hair to really figure out what's right. There's no professional knowledge in the world that rivals self-knowledge: "I cannot stress studying your hair enough. A stylist can only give you recommendations, but essentially you go home with your hair," says Malary. "Feel your hair out, document how it reacts. Essentially, keep a journal for your hair and learn to love it."