8 Dermatologist-Approved Tips To Help An Oily T-Zone (Without Overdrying It!)

So, with this in mind, let's chat about tending to it naturally:

Chemical exfoliants usually fall into two major categories: alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids. Both topicals can help slough off excess dead skin cells, control oil, and improve overall appearance. If you have very oily skin, your go-to will likely be salicylic acid (the BHA), as it works to dissolve oil itself and can be quite potent. If you have combination or sensitivities, use glycolic or lactic acid (the AHAs) as it will be much gentler. "They can be simultaneously exfoliating and hydrating, making them very beneficial to many skin types," says board-certified dermatologist Mona Gohara, M.D.

Also of note: Some people find retinoids to be too harsh, so ease into it—start with using it for one night every few days, and work your way up. And never layer retinoids with other exfoliators—that will likely be too much. Instead, alternate days that you use the various ingredients, or just stick to one. 

Consider this a cardinal rule of beauty: Everyone, no matter your skin type or concern, needs to hydrate. "Always moisturize to prevent irritation. Even if your skin feels oily, a light moisturizer is important to tolerate exfoliants and retinoids, and don't forget, too many products can dehydrate skin and lead to breakouts as skin produces extra oil to compensate," says Michele J. Farber, M.D., of Schweiger Dermatology Group in Philadelphia. 

It's not just exfoliants or potent ingredients that can help your T-zone: There are plenty of botanicals and actives that help manage and control oil production. For example, "Niacinamide and green tea also have data with decreasing oil production," says Kanchanapoomi Levin. This is particularly useful if you find that your skin is also slightly sensitive as well as oily, as these can help soothe skin while balancing sebum production. 

"Adjust products depending on your skin and the seasons," says Farber. "It's helpful to alternate between a foaming and hydrating cleanser to help oil control and also prevent dryness. Alternating between a lighter, gel-based moisturizer and a thicker oil-free cream moisturizer is also useful."

We know that those with oily skin don't need to shy away from oils, sure. (Feel free to use a light, noncomedogenic option if you fancy!) However, we may not give the same advice when it comes to your makeup bag. In this case, it's likely too much oil and usually not the good-for-skin kinds. "Oil-free and mineral-based makeup is often most gentle and tolerable for combination skin,” says Farber. 

When we are stressed, our bodies release a hormone called cortisol. There are biologically sound reasons for this; however, the hormone also triggers your pores to produce more oil. (Oil actually gives our bodies a layer of protection—it's why it's a vital part of our skin barrier function.) High cortisol levels trigger a chain of reactions in the body including activating sebocytes, the cells that produce sebum. Too much sebum has been directly linked to acne1.