Retinol vs. Retinoid: The Difference & Does It Really Matter Which One You Use? 

Of all the skin care ingredients we love and slather on until the last drop, there are a few that tend to get a bit more attention than others. Vitamin C comes to mind, as does hyaluronic acid or salicylic acid. Then there's what's been dubbed the "gold standard" of healthy aging ingredients, and it goes by many names—well, sort of.

Called Retin-A, retinol, retinoid, or a few other versions, this star skin care item is a derivative of vitamin A. And it garners as much confusion over its moniker as it does praise for its efficacy. The most common terms people refer to it as are retinol and retinoid.

We'll start with retinoid since this is the broadest. In fact, it is technically the blanket term for the entire category of vitamin A derivatives. This class of derivatives bonds with "retinoid receptors within skin cells," says board-certified dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, M.D. This "activates genes that upregulate collagen production. Besides stimulating production of new collagen, retinol enhances cell turnover. This means it sheds dead and damaged cells that make the skin look dull." Read: All the things you come to know and love about the healthy-aging active.

Retinol, while a type of retinoid, is strictly the OTC version. This means it's less potent, but also less irritating and usually more affordable. It also doesn't require a trip to your dermatologist's office for a prescription—you can just check out some of our fave retinol and retinol alternatives instead.

Retinols or retinoids are not for everyone—in fact many people out there find they can not tolerate the ingredient. To start, derms do not recommend using a retinol4 if you are pregnant or breastfeeding as a precaution.

Those with sensitive skin or an inflammatory skin disease should proceed with extreme caution. This includes anyone with eczema, rosacea, or psoriasis. See, those with sensitivities and are prone to inflammation inherently have a compromised skin barrier, and likely cannot tolerate the potent ingredient.

Additionally, those who with sensitized skin may find it too irritating. What do we mean by this? Well, if you've recently over-exfoliated, otherwise damaged your barrier, or are simply going through a more sensitive time period, you'll be be wise to hold off use until your skin gets back to a more calm state.

You use all forms of retinol the same way: On clean, freshly rinsed skin at night. You'll want to use them on freshly washed skin so they are making direct contact—and thus able to penetrate the skin cells and get to work. You can then follow with a hydrating cream or other serums. (In fact, you can check out how to layer products correctly here.) Most derms will recommend using them once every other night or every third night when you start—slowly working up use as you go.

Do not mix retinoids with too many products as it may inactivate the ingredient—most notably AHAs and BHAs can cause this issue. Not to mention, using both retinol and a chemical exfoliator will be far too damaging to your skin.

Additionally, you likely shouldn't use vitamin C and retinol at the same time (again: it may make ingredients inactive). We recommend vitamin C as your day active, and retinol in the evening.

As you are using it, you may find you have a phasing-in period (sometimes called the "retinoid reaction" or retinoid-induced dermatitis). "Localized skin irritation—often redness and dryness—is the most common side effect of [using] retinol," explains board-certified dermatologist Melanie Palm, M.D., MBA. Other possible side effects include peeling, itching, burning, and purging if you have any clogged pores. 

A common question that comes up is are there natural alternatives—and the answer comes in the form of bakuchiol (pronounced either "buh-koo-chee-all" or "back-uh-heel"; the internet can't seem to decide). The botanical is shown in research to deliver many of the same skin-rejuvenating perks minus the side effects.

It is a type of antioxidant compound called a meroterpene phenol,5 and it's most abundantly found in the seeds and leaves of the babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia), which is native to India. And well before its recent surge in popularity, it actually had a long history of use6 in traditional ayurvedic and Chinese medicine for its ability to treat a variety of skin conditions, including vitiligo and eczema, thanks to its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antiproliferative, and antimicrobial properties.

But back to its efficacy as a retinol dupe: In one 12-week, triple-masked study, half of the participants were assigned to use a topical treatment containing 0.5 percent retinol, and the other half were assigned to use one containing 0.5 percent bakuchiol. Researchers found that both groups experienced significant but equal improvements in lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, and skin firmness with an overall reduction in photo-aging. The bakuchiol group, however, experienced less dryness, scaling, and irritation. Quite the ingredient, no?