A Love Letter To Mandelic Acid: An Underrated Exfoliator & My Saving Grace

Back in 2022, esthetician Tiara Willis told me to keep an eye on mandelic acid. "It's really incredible, and it's pretty gentle as well," she explained during her As of Late interview. Watch this space, she said of her up-and-coming hero.

Fast-forward to 2024, and mandelic acid has become the No. 1 ingredient in my beauty routine. To be clear, I'm not saying it's brand-new—but it is underappreciated, especially up against mainstays like lactic and glycolic acids.

As I mentioned, mandelic acid is a proud member of the alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) family, which means its main gig is to exfoliate, brighten, and stimulate cell turnover. But AHAs are unique in that they hydrate as they exfoliate, which makes mandelic acid top-notch for more sensitive complexions. 

Not to mention, mandelic acid has a large molecular weight—meaning, it doesn't penetrate the skin's outer layer as deeply, which makes it more tolerable for easily irritated skin types. In short: Mandelic acid is an A+ AHA for sensitive skin. 

I tend to follow a regular skin cycling routine: exfoliation one night, then retinol, two nights of solely hydration, and repeat. On exfoliation night, I usually opt for the latest acid-infused treatment to cross my desk, but recently, I've been reaching for mandelic acid formulas only (cleansers, treatments, serums), and my skin has never looked better. 

The stubborn dark spots on my jawline? Gone. The inflammation on my cheeks and nose? Disappeared. The breakouts clustered along my T-zone? I haven't seen them in months. As someone who experiences hormonal acne timed around my cycle, this is major.