Is Double Cleansing Officially Done With? Here's What You Need To Know

Whether you have a 10-step skin care routine or a no-fuss regimen, a good, thorough cleanse is always the first step. After all, a fresh, clean canvas is absolutely necessary for all that follows—even the most potent actives cannot penetrate pores filled with lingering makeup, sunscreen, and overall grime. 

That's why the double cleanse method has remained so popular since its K-beauty inception: It allows you to thoroughly clean your face without sabotaging your skin barrier. 

And for the record, I love a double cleanse! It's been a nonnegotiable step in my skin care routine for years! However, I have noticed a significant shift in the cleansing market—some up-and-coming face washes boast special biphasic technologies to melt away oil-based makeup and provide a gentle foam, thus merging the two cleansing steps into one. 

A quick refresher: During a double cleanse, you first wash your face with an oil cleanser, followed by a water-based face wash. That first step easily melts away makeup and sunscreen, which are often oil-based, and dissolves excess oil on the skin (since like calls to like).

"Makeup and SPF are usually heavy oil-based products, so it's easy for oil-based cleansers to break that down since the molecular structure is similar," esthetician and skin care educator at Heyday Skincare Glenise Gomez previously told mbg. 

The short answer? No, you don't absolutely need to double cleanse. 

You do, however, need to remove all traces of makeup, sunscreen, and overall grime at the end of the day. If you require two washes to achieve a true bare face, then you do need to double down. 

"As with any trend, it's not necessary, nor is it even beneficial to 'double cleanse,'" says cosmetic chemist and product development specialist Charlene Valledor, president of SOS Beauty. "The point is to thoroughly and effectively cleanse and remove any impurities and excess sebum and debris from the skin without stripping or irritation."

Oil and water do not mix, as you might remember from physics class. Oil molecules are hydrophobic, meaning they repel water, which is why they'll form a distinct layer on top of water.

But with a bit of tinkering, chemists can combine oil and water into biphasic formulations, providing those two steps into one product.

Take the Strip Caviar Jelly Makeup Remover, for example: It contains a biphasic, microfluidic technology to suspend the tiny bubbles in the jar, which burst once massaged into the skin. (Yes, it's just as satisfying as it sounds.) Once emulsified with water, it transforms into a thin, watery confection that easily removes all lingering makeup and sunscreen residue. 

Renée Rouleau's Better Than Balm also contains a dual-phase technology powered by sucrose laurate—a sugar-based emulsifier that helps provide an oil-to-gel transformation. The cleanser starts as a silky, lightweight oil, then evolves into a milky gel to whisk away grime and stubborn makeup. 

Covey's First Of All Cleanser, on the other hand, delivers more of a foaming experience, with babassu oil and coconut surfactants. "Babassu oil nourishes and cleanses the skin but is the catalyst of the cleanse serving as the oil-based part as the makeup remover part," notes board-certified dermatologist Julie Russak, M.D. "The coconut surfactants are what binds to the dirt and makeup serving as the foam to lift away the dirt, the grime, [and] the makeup without stripping the skin and hydrating." 

Like a true beauty journalist, I put these single cleansers to the test: For a few weeks, I only used biphasic, two-in-one cleansers as my sole wash. I was pleasantly surprised by how clean (yet supple) my skin felt! I even soaked a cotton round with micellar water and swiped it across my face, just to make sure I didn't miss any spots—and it came back totally clean. 

Admittedly, I don't wear much makeup every single day—and I often don't use foundation when I do—but the cleansers effortlessly dissolved my mascara and tinted brow gel, two products that are notoriously finicky and difficult to remove. 

If you do often paint a full face beat, I might suggest a rinse-and-repeat situation just to ensure you get off all the grime. Or if you simply enjoy a multistep cleanse, then please, carry on with your ritual! But if you'd like to streamline your skin care routine even a smidgen, today's single cleansers totally have your skin covered.