How To Pick The Best Retinol For Your Skin Type + Application Tips, From A Derm

Oh, retinol—the forever buzzy vitamin A derivative that may be a holy grail for some and a point of fear for others. Due to the potency of retinoids (the umbrella term for both prescription-strength and over-the-counter retinol), these ingredients can easily be misused, leading to irritation, redness, sensitivity, etc. Yikes, we know.

If you have acne-prone or sensitive skin, you'll want to be extra mindful when shopping for a retinol product. Remember: Retinoid is an umbrella term, and there are a few different kinds of products that fall into this category, along with a wide range of concentrations.

See, retinoids contain a class of molecules that help to unclog blocked pores, Rubin says. But depending on what kind of acne you have, you may get better results from prescription-grade retinoids, like tretinoin or Tazorac. However, starting with an OTC product and increasing the strength over time might not be a bad idea (more on that in a bit).

On the other hand, "For those with sensitive skin, I love to look for products that contain encapsulated retinol, which utilizes a technology that 'time releases' the retinol more slowly, so it's not hitting your skin all at once," Rubin explains.

"One of the hardest parts of starting to use retinol is the process of retinization, where the skin can become irritated or sensitized as it acclimates to retinol," Rubin explains. Translation? Slow and steady wins the race. This means both with product potency and how frequently you use it.

Not sure where to start? Luckily, Rubin and the Fig.1 team formulated the perfect soft launch for retinol use. "We at Fig.1 developed a retinol step-up system, which allows your skin to acclimate to retinol at its own unique pace, without irritation," she explains. The first step: Fig.1 Retinol Night Cream No.1.

On the evenings you use retinol, all of your other steps should focus on hydration. "I love to layer hydrating products with hyaluronic acid and soothing products with niacinamide with my retinol. These ingredients support the skin barrier and help to reduce the risk of irritation," Rubin explains.