How To Exfoliate Your Face: 9 Tips From Experts + Signs You Should Skip It

Exfoliation has gotten a bad reputation over the years, thanks to some extra-harsh face scrubs that left plenty of people with red and irritated complexions.

However, derms will be the first to tell you that this process is a must for the plump, smooth, and bright complexion many of us are working toward. 

According to board-certified dermatologist Rachel Maiman, M.D., of Marmur Medical, exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the outer layer of the skin. When you do this, you're met with instant results in the form of smoother, brighter skin. 

But isn't the skin supposed to take care of itself? Well, it kind of does. See, your skin naturally exfoliates itself every single day—in fact, you shed between 30,000 and 40,000 dead skin cells every minute. 

"Alpha-hydroxy acids are lipophilic, meaning they mingle well with water and remain superficial on the skin surface," board-certified dermatologist Brendan Camp, M.D., FAAD, tells mbg. These are great for anyone with sensitive skin looking for gentle exfoliation and some healthy skin aging effects, Camp notes. 

"Beta-hydroxy acids, or BHAs, are oil-soluble exfoliants, which can penetrate deeper into pores and tend to have antibacterial properties," board-certified dermatologist and founder of Cutocin Nicole Hayre, M.D., FAAD, explains. The most common beta-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid, which is widely used in acne products thanks to its ability to dive deep into the pore. 

Next up, we have physical scrubs. If you want to take this route, be sure to look for a scrub that's blended with hydrating oils, butters, or waxes to smooth and protect the skin. In addition, resist pressing too hard on the skin when scrubbing—let the product work alone. 

Speaking of scrubs, did you know that you can make your own? Different from scalp and body scrubs, this DIY face exfoliator calls upon gentle powders and finely ground ingredients (skip the salt and large crystal sugar). 

Now onto another gentle exfoliant, enzymes from fruit extracts. "Enzymatic exfoliants dissolve or break apart the bonds between dead skin cells. This impacts the exfoliation process by facilitating the removal of dull-appearing cells from the skin surface," Camp notes. 

Gommage washes are the French's beloved way to exfoliate. (fun fact: gommage is the French word for scrub) 

"Gommage is a French technique of gentle exfoliation, licensed esthetician at Shafer Clinic Edyta Jarosz said. "It uses a combination of ingredients that exfoliate your skin chemically through the combination of enzymes and scrubbing to slough away dead skin and other debris from the surface of the skin." 

Facial cleansing brushes tend to be too harsh for daily use, but they are technically one method of exfoliation. You'll want to stick with silicone bristles if possible, as those hold on to fewer bacteria than other bristle brushes. 

Now, moving on to some in-office methods. "Almost anyone can benefit from a chemical peel," Hayre says. "I tend to use them frequently on my patients for treatment of melasma or to help clear sun damage." She notes that those with very sensitive skin should opt out of classic chemical peels, as the potent acids can be irritating. 

"Microdermabrasion is a physical exfoliation which uses a textured wand combined with a gentle suction to help exfoliate and remove debris from pores," Hayre says. You can have this done in-office if your dermatologist or esthetician provides it. 

"The most important tip is that 'less is more.' You want to exfoliate just enough to increase cell turnover and reveal fresh new skin," said Ife Rodney, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Eternal Dermatology. "But be sure to not scratch or damage your skin by overusing these devices or products."

More specifically, "Most people with normal or combination skin can get away with twice or even thrice-weekly exfoliation," she says. "Those with more mature, dry, or sensitive skin, may only want to exfoliate weekly." You may even try skin cycling if you're using retinol and exfoliants in your routine to space them out with intention. 

This becomes even more nuanced when you remember that exfoliants come in the form of serums, masks, toners, and moisturizers—however, you should follow the same rule and choose one exfoliator per evening you decide to exfoliate (be it once, twice, or three times a week). 

If you use gentle formulas, you may be able to exfoliate more frequently. On the flip side, stronger exfoliating products like the Cutocin Weekly Rendezvous Exfoliator pads (and many other exfoliating pads) should be used in moderation. 

Exfoliation can be intimidating, but it's one of those skin care steps that can be incredibly beneficial when done right. If you want to start exfoliating your skin, do so once a week with a gentle exfoliating serum or face cleanser and bump it up to twice or three times a week if your skin can tolerate it.