How To Care For Gray & Graying Hair From The Pros: Products & Tips

Silver, gray, white, platinum, salt-and-pepper. No matter how you describe your incoming gray strands, gray hair is a near universal experience shared by many of us at some point in time. And how you choose to wear your gray—whether by coloring it, embracing it, or somewhere in between—is entirely up to you.

However, as hair loses pigment, the fiber does experience some changes. This means that you may need to make some adjustments to your hair care routine, no matter what. As someone who is just beginning their graying journey (which I choose to cover up with blond highlights at this point in my life), I certainly can see differences in the texture of these budding new strands.

No matter if your grays start in your 20s or not till your 80s. No matter if your onset of silver is triggered by stressful situations in life or good old-fashioned genetics. No matter if your whole head turns platinum or just a bit of salt-and-pepper around the temples and hairline. No matter how you experience silvering hair, the mechanisms behind graying hair are all the same: Gray hair is simply the lack of color in a strand.

There are cells present in your skin (scalp included) called melanocytes that produce pigment, which colors your hair and skin. Due to genetics, age, health considerations, and external influences, these melanocytes decrease in number. This decline is similar to how other elements in our skin decline, like collagen, elastin, and so on. With this change, hair is no longer as pigmented, so it begins to appear more gray or white.

Whether you decide to cover your whole head with color or embrace the silver coming in, lean on your stylist's or colorist's expertise. "To avoid jeopardizing the health of the hair, you need a long-term plan," says celebrity colorist Abby Haliti. "This may take a few salon visits, but it is so worth it when you have the results you desired in the end and didn't risk the health of your hair." A hair pro will help you evaluate your (many!) options, teach you about your gray hair's nuance, give you product recommendations, and more.

Because ultimately, there are several routes you can take when you start to go silver. For example, if your white strands are sporadic, you may consider blending them in with highlights (it's often called "silver blending"). Or if you've been dyeing your entire head but now want to embrace the natural color, they can help make the process smoother—to avoid a blunt line. And if you only have a few gaps at target spots, they'll help you find your perfect color match and "spot treat" with dye—so you don't have to commit to a full process if you don't want to.

When hair starts to go gray, the texture changes. Silver strands often feel coarser, drier, and more wiry. In addition, they can also be more porous and prone to frizz. So this may mean a change to your standard go-to hair care products.

Growing research shows the very strong connection between oxidative stress triggered by free radicals and premature graying2. Much like oxidative stress depletes things in our skin like collagen and elastin, it is also thought to deplete pigment-producing cells. 

As a small dossier: Oxidative stress is what happens when the body's free radical levels outnumber the antioxidant levels for a prolonged period. This imbalance wreaks havoc on the body, hair included. Oxidative stress can be triggered by inflammation-causing diets, psychological stress, and external factors (like pollution).

You can reduce or manage your oxidative stress with lifestyle changes (you know, like stress management) and through antioxidants (both topical and oral). Look for hair care products that are loaded with antioxidant-rich botanicals, and opt for hair-enhancing vitamins.