5 Signs Your Skin Care Routine Is Causing Inflammation + What To Do About It

The road to inflammation is often paved with good intentions. So many folks adopt new skin care routines or habits with the hope of glowing, refreshed, vibrant skin—and instead are met with new sensitivities, irritation, and a more dull-looking complexion than before.

One of the most insidious traits of modern skin care routines is that we're simply doing too much: Too many ingredients, too much exfoliation, too high of a concentration of potent active ingredients, and too many "professional-grade" treatments without the discerning touch of an actual professional. 

Even if you don't notice the immediate side effects of heightened inflammation (i.e., you don't experience breakouts or rashes), that doesn't mean it's not doing damage. In fact, as mbg Collective member and board-certified dermatologist Whitney Bowe, M.D., tells us, even a slight disruption to the barrier can lead to this undercurrent of inflammaging1. 

"Pay attention to your skin barrier. When the barrier is not functioning—even if it's not overt, and you're not seeing the signs—there's chronic low-grade, microscopic inflammation," she says. "When the skin barrier is even slightly compromised, a patient may just go about their business thinking everything is fine, but there's a whole cascade of all these inflammatory cytokines that are actually creating a slow burn under the surface. This is setting you up for major problems down the road." 

Cleanser should not make your skin feel tight, and exfoliation should not hurt. If your skin feels uncomfortable during your skin care routine—that means it is, and you should readjust. 

For cleansers, skip sulfates, as those are fairly irritating to most skin types. Look for calming and buffering ingredients, such as butters, emollients, and oils. Aloe vera makes for a good base ingredient, as it's both hydrating and anti-inflammatory. Cleansing milks, oils, and balms are especially gentle for those with dry skin.

Our skin deals with a lot day-to-day. It's what protects us from the outside world, pollution, and stressors. So why make it deal with more by applying harsh topicals? When in doubt, opt for calming skin care. Look for anti-inflammatory ingredients, such as oat extracts, aloe, antioxidants, butters, and oils.   

You should also look for actives that help support and strengthen your skin barrier. Fatty acids (found in many plant oils and butters), squalane/squalene, ceramides, and other lipids are a good place to start, as they feed the skin's moisture barrier. 

There are also skin-microbiome-supporting ingredients that help restore barrier function. For example, some postbiotic ingredients have been shown to improve epidermis framework regeneration. This is notable, as it can limit inflammaging as it relates to external exposures. 

Of course skin health is not simply dependent on the products you use. First of all, your skin is in constant contact with the world around you. So it's important to be mindful of how you protect the skin from UV damage and pollution—wear mineral sunscreen daily.