If You Exfoliate But Your Skin Never Looks Smooth, This Expert-Approved Trick Could Change Everything

Exfoliation is hailed as the golden ticket to smooth skin. And, in many ways, it is: Exfoliation helps slough off dead, dry, rough skin on the epidermis, making way for softer, more vibrant skin underneath.

And while this isn't related to the aesthetic benefit, it's worth noting: The act of exfoliation just feels good. There's something so satisfying about a body scrub or facial mask that offers immediate gratification. The results are basically instant and the sensation is oh-so-pleasant. What's not to love?

As a beauty director, I believe exfoliation is an important part of any beauty routine—so long as you're doing it correctly. And since exfoliation is such a sensorial pleasure, I often find people can't help but overdo it. I'd put myself into that camp: When I find a new buffing scrub that I love, I have to stop myself from lapping it up. (For what it's worth: I have very sensitive skin and can't tolerate much exfoliation to begin with.) And when exfoliation becomes too frequent, it can actually make skin rougher than it was before.

Over-exfoliation breaks up the skin barrier, which is responsible for keeping skin hydrated, supple, and healthy. When it's compromised, folks usually experience irritation, patchy texture, and even signs of premature aging such as fine lines. 

That was quite the preamble, but it brings me to what I want to share here. If you find that your exfoliation habit doesn't seem to be working (i.e., you see rough patches, dry skin, fine lines, and bumpy texture), it may be a sign that you're not exfoliating correctly. 

Sandwiching—or strategically bundling a potent ingredient between two soothing ones—is not a new concept. In fact, lots of derms recommend sandwiching retinols between layers of hydrating lotions in order to soothe the dreaded retinol reaction. 

"If you want to decrease the potency of a serum—like if it contains potentially irritating ingredients—then applying a moisturizer first could help make the serum less potent and less irritating," board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, M.D., told us about the layering trick. This will serve as a calming buffer.

When folks exfoliate the face, it's usually with one of three kinds of products: An exfoliating serum (such as those with AHAs or BHAs), a resurfacing mask, or a face scrub. 

For leave-on products such as serums, you'll want to layer your products mindfully. After cleansing, apply a hydrating serum, such as a hyaluronic acid serum, just before slathering on the exfoliant. Follow up with a hydrating face cream as normal. 

"Shower sandwiching" is a trick we learned from celebrity esthetician and dermatological nurse Natalie Aguilar. All "shower sandwiching" entails is applying body oil before and after the shower—so you're comforting your skin between those rich, nourishing fatty acids.

She considers it one of her favorite rituals to care for dry, rough skin. "This oil barrier prevents excessive water loss and helps with any irritation," she notes.