Algae Is A Controversial Ingredient Right Now: Is It Good For Acne-Prone Skin?

Specifically, there's one ingredient that can fall into the comedogenic category for some but continues to pop up on ingredient lists…including products that are formulated to help treat acne. Confusing, we know. But don't worry; we asked skin care experts to get you all of the information on this buzzy ingredient. Here, we're talking about algae, in all of its many forms. 

That being said, not every skin care product uses the entire algae plant. Instead, many use extracts of a certain species. "Algae extracts or bioactives extracted from macro or microalgae used in skin care are highly processed. This means that beneficial parts of the algae are kept and all other non-beneficial parts are removed," Karpuzoglu adds. Namely, the ones that may be comedogenic.

You're probably thinking: But doesn't algae have anti-inflammatory benefits that can help calm the skin? And you're absolutely right—not to mention, some species even have antibacterial benefits1 that can help guard skin health. "Several of the macro and microalgae biocomponents have been shown to have a high potential for anti-inflammation, anti-aging, skin-brightening, UV protection, boosting collagen synthesis, antioxidant, antimicrobial, and antiviral properties," Karpuzoglu says. 

However, remember when we discussed how some skin care formulas cherry-pick algae extracts? This process can determine whether or not the ingredient is comedogenic. As clean cosmetic chemist Krupa Koestline, founder of KKT Consultants, explains: "Ingredients' chemistry and their behavior change upon manipulation–what that means is that raw ingredients may behave differently than their final form after it's formulated into a product." So what does this mean for algae? Well, products that use the entire algae plant, rather than isolating specific extracts, may be more likely to clog pores. 

As you can probably tell, this isn't a yes or no question. Again, everyone's skin is different, so it's always important to do your own research. That being said, there are a few ways you can navigate the vast world of algae in skin care. Here's what the pros recommend: 

Although algae may be popping up as a red flag on comedogenic scales, it may not always be as harmful to acne-prone skin as you might think. In fact, algae extracts have tons of benefits for the skin, including anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, both of which can actually help with acne management. Because there are so many different kinds of algae, and we need way more research on them, it's a good idea to test a product before slathering it all over your skin—especially if you tend to break out. And if you find algae's not for you, don't fret: There are plenty of other stellar hydrators out there—niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and aloe, to name a few.