Beauty Breakdown: Our Full Exfoliation Guide, With All The Expert Tips You Need

As a collective beauty culture, I think we've finally overcome the acid craze that captivated the past few years. As phrases like the moisture barrier and skin microbiome become more familiar to the average consumer, people understand that you simply cannot exfoliate every single day without literally stripping your skin raw. Your skin needs time to rest and recharge. (Say it with me now!)

Oh, but exfoliators are so fun, aren't they? They come in so many sensorially appealing forms and provide instantly gratifying results. Exfoliating is also inherently active—it feels like you're truly doing something to your skin, which makes it all the more tantalizing to experiment with different complexion-enhancing formulas. And while some may consider exfoliation an extra, nonessential step in a skin care routine, for most people it's actually necessary for healthy, plump, youthful-looking skin—so long as you don't scrub your skin raw. 

Let's begin with a basic definition: Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the outer layer of the skin. Now, your skin naturally exfoliates itself every single day—in fact, you shed between 30,000 and 40,000 dead skin cells every minute. However, things like weather, lifestyle, skin care products, age, and dehydration can slow down or halt this process, which can result in dull, flaky, congested skin over time. That's where routine exfoliation comes into play: You can take matters into your own hands to speed up cell turnover, either by manually lifting those cells with a physical scrub or tool or using certain skin care ingredients to gently dissolve them (more on that later). 

At-home exfoliation comprises two buckets: physical and chemical. Physical exfoliation involves manually lifting and removing dead skin cells (think scrubs, tools, and the like). Many people prefer this method, as you can control the pressure and, thus, the strength of the exfoliant. Physical exfoliation can also offer more immediate results: "Physical exfoliation offers instant gratification, as dead skin cells and dirt are swept away during the treatment—it's perfect if you need an immediate glow. Some patience is required with chemical exfoliation," says board-certified dermatologist Jessie Cheung, M.D., founder of Cheung Aesthetics and Wellness. Not to mention, the actual scrubbing itself can stimulate blood circulation, which offers even more of a glow.

Chemical exfoliants, on the other hand, use naturally exfoliating acids such as hydroxy acids (AHAs, BHAs, or PHAs) or enzymes to dissolve dead skin cells. Those with sensitive or dry skin might find chemical exfoliants particularly useful, as some light, low-concentration acids can gently promote cell turnover—as opposed to scrubbing with potentially irritating beads or granules.

If you do decide to go the chemical route, it's important to be mindful of the acids your skin can and cannot handle. See, different types of acids are better suited for certain skin types: For example, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are hydrophilic, meaning they are water-loving; these are used to slough off dead skin cells, brighten, even tone, and reverse signs of aging. "They can be simultaneously exfoliating and hydrating, making them very beneficial to many skin types," says board-certified dermatologist Mona Gohara, M.D.

"With exfoliation, there is such a thing as too much," board-certified dermatologist Flora Kim, M.D., FAAD, tells mbg about exfoliation routines. "If you use too harsh of an exfoliant and too often, you will strip, irritate, and damage your skin instead of helping it." 

I repeat: Dead skin cells are not inherently bad! In fact, dead skin is necessary for proper skin function, as they help lock in moisture and keep the precious water from seeping out. So you don't want to be sloughing them off every single night—rather, spend some time simply pampering your skin barrier. 

We can credit board-certified dermatologist Whitney Bowe, M.D., for coining the buzzy skin cycling regimen. "Skin cycling does two main things," she notes on TikTok. "First, it prevents irritation. Secondly, it really helps you get the most out of each one of your powerful active products." Essentially, it's a four-day cycle to help dole out your actives: Night No. 1 is for exfoliation, night No. 2 is for retinol, and nights No. 3 and 4 are dedicated to skin recovery. 

Enzymes are tiny molecules found in fruits (think pumpkins, cherries, and papaya) that break down keratin—aka, the protein in dead skin cells. They're slightly different from AHAs or BHAs: They get rid of dead skin cells at the surface of the skin, but they don't exactly promote cell turnover for living cells underneath. Think of enzymes as shedding already dead skin and buffing it smooth rather than a forced cell turnover. 

DIY ventures can be tricky, especially when it comes to exfoliating agents (note: It's best to stay away from ingredients like lemon juice and apple cider vinegar). However, if you absolutely must attempt a kitchen project, sugar scrubs make great body and lip exfoliators.