An Editor's Audit: The Great Lip Plumper Investigation

Welcome to our lip plumper Editor's Audit. I'm thrilled to be your guide! See, the lip plumping space is innovating at breakneck speed, with plenty of options that promise to give you a pillowy pout without the pain. But which plumper reigns supreme? 

The short answer is an infuriating it depends (don't blame the messenger). Some folks crave immediate volume, while others prefer to subtly enhance their lips over time, and you can find more than a few formulas for each fancy—and some that tick both boxes.

This baby took the beauty space by storm when it first launched in February 2022. The formula calls upon small molecules of hyaluronic acid to draw water into the surface of the lips, which increases the volume (think of a dry sponge filling up with moisture). With vitamin B3 derivatives, it also helps smooth lip lines, increase definition, and instantly enhance color. 

My verdict? This stuff works! I'll be honest, I didn't know what to expect when I uncapped my first treatment. A "topical lip filler" sounded way too good to be true, but much to my surprise, it made my lips practically double in size. 

I will say, it does take some getting used to if you have sensitive skin; it did sting moderately the first few times I tried it, but it reduced to a nice tingle once I got through the initial five layers. On that note: This is not a one-and-done type of balm. The brand recommends applying five layers twice a day for the first five days, then one layer at least three times per day for the best results. 

This topical formula is the most comparable to actual lip filler, IMO. (I don't personally have any filler at this point in my life, but I've talked to other beauty fans who do, and they agree.) Like the previous product, DermInfusions contains four molecular weights of HA to usher water into each layer of the lip skin. Trehalose, another humectant, adds even more water-binding properties to plump the lips with moisture. 

It also contains a peptide blend (palmitoyl tripeptide-38 and palmitoyl tripeptide-1, to be specific) to help stimulate collagen and give lips a firmer appearance. Finally, the treatment includes known skin soothers—ectoin, bisabolol, and centella asiatica—to heal chapped lips, prevent dryness, and protect the skin from environmental aggressors (which can make lips appear dull). 

You can read my full review of the lip treatment here for more info, but overall, this is my favorite option. I love how instantly full and vibrant my lips look after just a few minutes, and without any additional swipe of color. It does come with a slight tingle, but the sensation goes away after about a minute. The finish reads just like a nonsticky lip oil—I'm obsessed. 

If plumper lips over time is what you're after, this balm is your best bet. Derms typically advise against using lip plumpers frequently since all that stinging and burning isn't so healthy for your delicate lip skin. This formula, however, subtly increases volume over time with a 6% tripeptide complex, plus signature filling spheres that deliver hyaluronic acid deep within the layers of the lip skin. 

It also calls upon star hydrators, like chia seed oil, squalane, Capacau butter, and mango butter, to further soothe and nourish the lips. It's so moisturizing, in fact, that I've used it as a nighttime lip mask for the past month—I've woken up with lips so supple and juicy it almost looks like I applied lip gloss in my sleep. 

This is probably the closest you'll get to a traditional plumper. After a chaste kiss turned tingly, my partner now asks if I'm wearing my "spicy gloss" before giving me a smooch. 

The sensation comes from the formula's hero ingredient complex of blueberry oil, infinity pepper, and ginger root oil (B.I.G., get it?), which even they admit is "not for the faint of heart." Look, some people don't mind a little sting—myself included! There's something about the burning sensation that makes it feel like it's really working, you know? 

On a scale from strictly nourishing to oh-so-spicy, this firming formula falls squarely in the middle. It has a very slight sting upon application, but it's so subtle I barely even notice the burn. It's super moisturizing, with pomegranate, coconut, and squalane oil, yet the cream-to-balm formula absorbs super quickly into the skin.

It features the brand's signature 2% LineFill and 1% Maxi-Lip complex, with peptides to plump and smooth, along with hyaluronic acid filling spheres to infuse the lips with hydration. It doesn't provide immediate results (consistency is key), but it also doesn't sting nearly as much—ultimately, it's up to you which experience you prefer.