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This Internationally Famous Natural Peel Is Now Available In The US — What To Know Before You Book
When I hear "peel," I think "acids." After all, that's exactly what conventional peels use to exfoliate the top layer of skin. So when I got an email about an all-natural peel sans any acids, my curiosities were understandably piqued. The peel in question was Dr. med. Christine Schrammek's iconic GREEN PEEL Herbal Peeling treatments, which had only just started being offered in the U.S.
The German-based, dermatologist-founded cosmetic company offers both professional-grade treatments (usually available in estheticians' offices or medical spas) and skin care products. The brand has a robust international following—but has only just entered the American markets. And I was one of the first U.S. editors to experience it in New York about a month ago.
It's available at dozens of locations across the country, with more to come over time. Here's what to know before getting one.
What is the Green Peel?
The Green Peel Herbal Peeling Treatments from Dr. med. Christine Schrammek is an internationally renowned professional-grade facial that's been available for 60 years in over 70 countries. Created by German dermatologist Christine Schrammek, this natural peel uses a blend of nine herbs to stimulate cellular turnover.
The Green Peel herbal mixture uses extracts from field water horsetail, aloe vera, ribwort, horsetail, lungwort, pansy, marigold, chamomile, and algae. "These herbs seep deep into the skin to the point where they're able to stimulate the cell renewal cycle. It takes it from a 28-day renewal cycle—if we're lucky—down to five," says licensed esthetician Victoria Waked, U.S. head of training and education for Dr. med. Christine Schrammek USA.
For example, she tells me, marigold can support cellular regeneration—one study showed that the antioxidant capacity in the herb can help improve collagen synthesis1, regulates tissue remodeling, upregulates turnover, and suppresses oxidative stress. Ribwort improves wound healing and barrier function in the skin. Aloe vera has a laundry list of benefits, including regulating pigment production2 through its compound aloesin, improving elasticity, and it has anti-inflammatory properties3.
Because these herbs increase the speed at which skin cells turn over, it will cause the surface level of the skin to shed more quickly. This is what causes the peel, purging, or flaking reaction. This is in contrast to how we tend to think of peels in the U.S., which use acids to break down living skin cells and protective lipids, which causes the layers of the skin to slough off.
"A conventional chemical peel will work from the outside in—stimulating a response on the surface. Whereas this peel works from the inside out, by encouraging cellular renewal," says Waked. "In doing this, we're never harming or diminishing the strength of the skin barrier. We're actually improving the health of the skin barrier by working from the inside out."
The herbs themselves are mixed in a unique concentration based on the level of the facial, as well as the individual's unique needs. After blending an entirely unique concoction, the facialist will then massage it into the skin. During the application process, there's a range of how hard the pressure is when massaged in and the length of time it's left on—this will also help determine how strong the facial is.
There are three versions of the peel, in order of the most potent to least: The Herbal Peeling Classic, Energy, and Freshen Up.
- As the original, The Classic is the strongest and most famous—it's also the treatment in which the skin will actually peel during the days following and requires the most stringent after-care protocol (more on that below). This is the only option that "peels" in a traditional sense—i.e., the skin visibly flakes off.
- The Energy (which I tried) is a good middle ground: ideal for treating most skin concerns, but you can go about your life immediately following. This will likely not cause the skin to peel, but you may experience a short "purging" period.
- And finally, The Freshen Up, which is recommended for very sensitive skin, light fixes, or as a tune-up just before an event. This is the most like a standard facial, with no peeling or purging period.
Where to find the Green Peel:
Benefits
The Green Peel is appropriate for a wide range of skin concerns:
- Fine lines & wrinkles: By encouraging cell turnover, upregulating collagen production, and improving barrier function, it can smooth out fine lines and wrinkles in the skin.
- Loss of elasticity: Several of the herbs used have been shown to improve elasticity.
- Blemishes & enlarged pores: The peel can help unclog pores and reduce inflammation in the skin, both of which lead to breakouts.
- Pigmentation concerns: It can help fade dark spots or post-inflammatory hypermutation by encouraging cell turnover.
- Dullness: By sloughing off dead skin cells at the surface, younger, more vibrant skin cells are revealed below the surface. In addition, the facial massage can encourage circulation to the skin, which will give a temporary boost.
The severity of these concerns will ultimately dictate the treatment itself. "This gives the facialist the absolute power to decide what is appropriate for the patient, based on what they need and what they're in there for," says Waked. "There's nothing present nor predetermined. I look at and touch the skin to do my analysis and then can evaluate what can be done just from this one jar of herbs."
What also makes the Green Peel particularly appealing is that—unlike conventional peels where there's an upper limit to usage—you can get these regularly to speed up results.
"With normal peels, there's a limit on how many you should do. At a certain point, you start to thin out the skin, impair your barrier, and then these problems we're looking to solve actually become worse," says Waked. "But with the Green Peel, you can keep getting them and the skin will actually become healthier."
What to expect
There's a wide range of things to know going into it—as what option you get will determine the application and post-care protocol. The most important thing is to work closely with the practitioner, who will guide you through what you need to do based on your skin.
Before
One month before the facial, I got an email from Waked with my prep instructions and a questionnaire. The questionnaire was straightforward: Any allergies? Have you had any reactions to treatments in the past? Any skin conditions? What are your most pressing concerns? If you've gotten a facial or in-office treatment before, you know the drill.
I was also instructed that I must avoid lasers, chemical peels, injections, micro-needling, microdermabrasion, and any other exfoliating treatment for the month leading up to the treatment. No issues there, as I didn't have any other treatments in the books.
They also asked that I stop use of retinoids, AHAs, or BHAs. I have sensitive skin and don't mind taking a break from potent ingredients such as these—I just focus on antioxidant serums, barrier-strengthening formulas, and hydrating creams. For folks who use any of these daily, this might be an issue. Just speak with your practitioner on when exactly you should stop using these ingredients.
During
I had been informed beforehand that the facial part itself was a bit more "intense." But I've had treatments I've likened to being burned with a hot curling iron (read here), so my scale for intense facials is somewhat skewed.
I had the Energize treatment (which as a reminder is the middle ground option). I also warned her I had very sensitive skin, so I think she used a lighter hand than she otherwise might have. Both of those things considered, I'd describe the treatment as a bit more aggressive than your average facial—but certainly nothing to be scared of prior to going.
As Waked reminded me after, the pressure and duration of massage is entirely different person-to-person. "The Classic is typically seven to 10 minutes, with a medium to deep pressure during the herbal massage. The energy is about three to four minutes with light to medium pressure. And finally, the Freshen Up has only about one to two minutes and light pressure only," she says.
For those with a sensitive nose, be warned that it has a very strong, earthy smell. I was instantly reminded of botanical teas and summer days out in wild-grown fields. I liked it because it reminded me of my youth, riding horses and playing in the wildflowers—but others may not have such a nostalgic reaction.
Apparently, my skin reacted immediately to the stimulation—as my esthetician noted on my flush and redness. This is unsurprising, as my skin goes red during most facials, especially those with heat or lots of touch.
After the peeling concoction is massaged in, they apply a cooling mask best suited for your skin type. Mine smelled of algae and seawater and was thick. But it certainly did its job: The sensation was thoroughly refreshing upon application, and my esthetician said it brought down my skin's redness considerably.
All in all, I was under my esthetician's hands for just under an hour. And then I left makeup-free, with a pinky hue to my cheeks.
After
My aftercare was pretty minimal, as I only got the Energize. I went home and didn't touch my face that evening. Then the next day, I went about my skin care routine as normal. I used a barrier-fortifying serum from Marie Veronique that I love (below), as I didn't want to potentially irritate the skin barrier. I cushioned that with a simple yet deeply hydrating face cream from Kiehl's.
I absolutely fell in love with the Dr. med. Christine Schrammek Blemish Balm, which is considered the original BB cream. Even though I could go back to wearing makeup as normal, I used the balm as my cover-up, as it was all I needed. Well, that and maybe a few strategic swipes of my favorite concealer (which at the moment is Tower28's Swipe All Over Hydrating Serum Concealer) and cream blush.
However, those who opt for The Classic, please be warned that the post care is much more rigorous, and there is downtime. It'll vary for everyone, but plan for up to five days of potential peeling and going barefaced.
You'll be sent home with instructions and an at-home care kit (which will likely include Herbal Care Lotion, Blemish Balm, and Special Care Cream, if not additional products). But here's where things get challenging: You can't wet your face with water for five days, which includes washing your face or sweating. (This is also why you shouldn't wear makeup, as you can't wash it off.)
"You can actually sweat out the herbs or wash the face if they're not deep enough in yet. That's why if you get neurotoxin injections you don't sweat for 48 hours because you'll sweat out the stuff you just put in. And we want to make sure the herbs stay in so they can work at the cellular level to stimulate that renewal cycle," says Waked.
In the place of a cleanser, they ask you to use the Herbal Care Lotion, which is similar to a toner. And then of course: Please no manual peeling. You may be tempted to pick at the skin once you start seeing flakes, but let your skin be. If you preemptively pull at the flakes, it may damage the skin.
Results
Energize is a good word for this facial, as that's what I felt it gave my complexion. For weeks after, my skin looked brighter and more supple. You can see in my before and after photos that I just look more rested and vibrant. While I don't have major concerns (such as blemishes, dark spots, or deep wrinkles), I am at an age when I've started caring about the onset of fine lines and sagging. And this has helped address some of those concerns.
As expected, I didn't experience any peeling—but I do think my skin went through something of a purge about a week after as I developed a zit on my chin. I asked Waked about it and she agreed it could have been a purging reaction, or it could have just been a normal blemish that comes up from time to time.
But other than that, I had no issues with sensitivities or adverse reactions. Given how sensitive my skin is, that's saying something.
When I'm able, I'd be interested in seeing how my skin would handle The Classic—although five days without sweating or wetting my face is a tough thing to manage. However, the before and after photos from that treatment are quite impressive (see above), so I'm certainly tempted to see how it'd improve my complexion.
Ultimately, I'm most impressed with how customizable it is. I can imagine myself getting a Freshen Up before an event, or an Energize anytime my skin needs a bit of a tuneup. And then when I can manage it, I'd get The Classic for a more thorough overhaul. It's a fabulous tool to have in the skin care arsenal.
Who it's best for & who should skip it
The peel is suitable for any skin tone, gender, age, sensitivity level, lifestyle, goal, and just about any skin care concern. The only people who should avoid it are those who have an allergy to any of the indicated ingredients.
The universality is due to the peel's customizability. "With these herbs you can treat anything from loss of firmness, deep wrinkles, light wrinkles, acne scars, hyper pigmentation, and the like. It just comes down to the differences in the treatment protocol itself," she says.
I'll use myself as an example: I have sensitive skin and wade gently into new skin care territory. In addition, when the aesthetician was available for facials, I wasn't able to pencil in a few days for downtime (I had to travel for work just days after and would likely be getting my skin wet). So, rather than jumping straight into the Classic, I spoke with the team and we agreed that the Energize was likely a better solution for me. After having tried the facial, I fully intend to try the Classic version in the future—just during a time when I know I can stand to peel for a few days.
"There's a lot of ways that we treat people depending on what their concerns are and lifestyle allows," says Waked.
The takeaway
It was news to me, but apparently peels don't need to use acids to get the desired effect. This time-tested facial (decades-tested, in fact) is proof. The blend of nine botanical extracts encourages cell renewal deep in the skin, resulting in an exfoliation from the inside out. If you find this appealing, you'll likely want to check out this other new-to-the-U.S. treatment.
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