How To Double-Cleanse According To Pros Who Do It

Double-cleansing is nothing new. However, with the collective move away from disposable makeup wipes, it only makes sense that it's picked up in worldwide popularity as of late. 

Double-cleansing is a skin care method in which you first cleanse your face with an oil-cleanser, followed by a water-based face wash.

Thanks to the popular K-Beauty (short for Korean beauty) 10-step skin-care regimen (double-cleansing makes up the first two steps), the trend continues to rise in popularity and has caught on worldwide. Korean beauty products tend to prioritize the skin barrier and hydration first and foremost, so an oil-based cleanser naturally fits into this philosophy.

"Using an oil-based cleanser helps to balance oil within the skin by replacing sebum in clogged, dirty pores with beneficial oils that help to hydrate and maintain skin's barrier," board-certified dermatologist Kim Nichols M.D., FAAD, of NicholsMD, tells mbg. As you may already know, a happy skin barrier is essential to maintaining healthy skin overall. 

Perhaps the most obvious benefit of oil cleansing is that you'll literally melt away your makeup. You'll skip the aggressive rubbing, harsh chemical-based makeup removers, and wasteful disposable wipes. 

Once you've tried this step, you'll understand the hype—oil removes makeup even more easily than popular alternatives. "Makeup and SPF are usually heavy oil-based products, so it's easy for oil-based cleansers to break that down since the molecular structure is similar," esthetician and skin care educator at Heyday Skincare Glenise Gomez tells mbg. 

Those with oily or acne-prone skin tend to be the most hesitant when it comes to using an oil cleanser. It's only natural to assume that putting more oil on already oily skin is a recipe for disaster, but derms refute that claim. 

"Oil cleansing can help to balance oil within the skin, as it helps to remove oil without stripping the skin of its natural oils or leading to dryness," board-certified dermatologist Marisa Garshick, M.D., FAAD, tells mbg. "Excessive dryness of the skin can actually cause the skin to produce more oil," she continues. 

If your skin typically feels tight after cleansing, it may be due to a stripped barrier. "Certain cleansers are formulated with ingredients that could strip the skin of moisture, causing additional irritation for those with already dry skin," Nichols says. This includes makeup wipes, astringent cleansers, and the like. 

"Oil-based cleansers effectively cleanse the skin of dirt and bacteria without dehydrating skin; in fact, they often help to replenish hydration levels within the skin and aid in restoring skin's barrier," she continues. 

Remember that you don't need to use a double-cleansing method in the morning, so reserve this process for the evening.

The first step might take some getting used to, but you'll want to apply your oil cleanser to dry skin after washing your hands. The latter is important, as you don't want to spread bacteria and dirt on your hands to your skin.

"Oil cleanser is best used on dry skin because oil and water do not mix well," Garshick says. "Oil is attracted to oil, so when applied to dry skin, it works to eliminate excess oil and can help to gently but effectively remove makeup and buildup," she adds. 

Use a little over a quarter size of oil cleanser or balm. If you have a balm-like product, you may want to massage it in between your hands before applying it to the skin to ensure the oil is in liquid form, making it easier to spread. 

Rub the cleanser onto your skin in circular motions, and be sure to lightly massage oil on the eyelids and lashes (with eyes closed, of course). If you wear makeup and sunscreen on your neck, be sure to get that area covered as well. 

Now with damp skin, it's time to go in with your water-based cleanser. These formulas need to be emulsified as well, so add a bit of water to your hands before reaching for your cleanser. 

Rub the cleanser between your fingers and then apply it to the skin. Just like with your oil cleanser, you should rub the water-based wash on your skin in circular motions. Be sure to get into the neck and hairline, too. 

After washing your skin for 30 seconds to a minute, rinse it all off. You shouldn't have any product residue on the skin. However, it's important to distinguish the difference between a good rinse and an excessive rinsing.

Fun fact: You don't have to dry your skin with a towel after cleansing. In fact, many towels can collect bacteria and come in the form of abrasive materials, so you might be better without a full-face dry. Simply pat the corners of your face dry and dab whenever there's water dripping. 

While your skin is slightly damp, apply any humectant products (if you use them). Hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and aloe vera are the most popular humectants. Many of these ingredients are found in facial moisturizers, so feel free to apply your moisturizer to damp skin as well. 

However, if you're using any form of retinol or chemical exfoliant serums (AHAs, BHAs, etc.), then it's best to apply them to dry skin. When you apply a product to damp skin, it will absorb more of the product, and it will penetrate deeper into the skin. 

This is great for hydrating ingredients but not the best for actives like retinol. If you do apply retinol to damp skin, you'll run the risk of irritation, redness, and the like. 

There's plenty more out there than listed here, but that should be a good starting point. To ensure your product is fully noncomedogenic, paste the ingredients list into this Pore-Clogging Ingredients Checker from Acne Clinic NYC. 

One particularly beneficial oil for acne-prone skin is rosehip seed, as it's rich in vitamin A—the same ingredient that makes retinol. The Pai Light Work Rosehip Cleansing Oil is one A+ pick—especially for those with sensitive and acne-prone skin. 

For those with dry skin, heavier oils are a better fit. Ingredients like coconut oil may actually be beneficial for this skin type, as the risk of pore-clogging in dry skin types tends to be less. Dry skin types may benefit from thicker oil cleansers found in the form of a balm, like the Farmacy Green Clean cleansing balm. 

For those with sensitive skin, stick with fragrance-free products all around. From your oil cleanser to your water-based wash and beyond, it's best to avoid ingredients like essential oils, as they may irritate your skin. 

Simple formulas will be your best friend. The Typology 7-Ingredient Cleansing Oil is a perfect fit—it's packed with nutrient-dense oils like sunflower seed and sweet almond oil and derivatives of coconut. 

Those with combination skin tend to fall in the middle of dry and oily skin, so you'll want to stick with middle-ground products. If your skin fluctuates with the seasons, then you may want to rotate between a thicker oil cleanser and a thinner one like jojoba oil. 

The oil cleanser will help to free your skin makeup, sunscreen, sebum, and skin care left on the skin. "It works by attracting and bonding to excess dirt, bacteria, makeup, and sebum, helping to remove them from pores," Nichols explains. See, oil attracts oil, so oil-based cleansers are able to break down lipid residues on the skin (of which, many creams, makeup, and sunscreen are).

After you wash off the oil cleanser, your second cleanse (more on this next) will be able to deeply clean the skin without having to break through makeup, dirt, bacteria, and the like. Plus, the rest of your routine will be even more effective. 

"By properly eliminating buildup, makeup, and sunscreen, it ensures that the rest of the skin care routine can properly penetrate," Garshick says.

The water-based cleanser is your day-to-day face wash. Most traditional face washes tend to lather when emulsified, but not every cleanser is formulated in that fashion, as each skin type has different needs.