Dark Spots, Melasma & Freckles: Our Breakdown On The Differences

Now that SPF is out of the way—just kidding! we talk about it again several times later—let's dive into these forms of hyperpigmentation.

"Dark spots" is a broad term that can include forms of hyperpigmentation like sun spots, age spots, and acne scars. "Hyperpigmentation is excess melanin production in your skin," says cosmetic dermatologist and founder of Epione Simon Ourian, M.D. When the skin faces any inflammation (brought on by sun exposure, blemishes, and even chronic low-grade inflammation over time), the cells that control melanin production—called melanocytes—can become overactive, leading to that extra pigment. 

They tend to be smaller, individualized patches of color. They can appear anywhere on the face or body and might be more concentrated in areas where you've recently had damage or inflammation. For example, if you break out on your cheeks, you'll likely have more dark spots there due to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation—which may then worsen during the summer due to sun exposure. Or if you regularly forget to apply sunscreen on your shoulders, you may develop some there over time. They may also vary in severity: Some have light stains of pigment, while others may experience more dramatic tonal differences. 

This type of hyperpigmentation is triggered by hormonal changes in the body (however, sun certainly doesn't help). "It isn't painful and doesn't present any health risks but can cause significant emotional distress for the estimated 6 million American women who develop these dark patches on their faces," says board-certified dermatologist Keira Barr, M.D. "Because it can be difficult to treat, minimizing triggers is important." 

This form of hyperpigmentation tends to show up in more localized areas on the face, such as the forehead, nose, cheeks, and the upper lip (sometimes called the melasma mustache)—and is less common on the body. These tend to form clusters together—and can appear quite large. Since these are triggered by hormonal changes, you may experience it when making birth control adjustments, are pregnant, or are going through menopause. Melasma, too, is also much more common in women—while the other forms of pigmentation can be experienced by anyone. 

Additionally, freckles can be further separated into two types: ephelides and solar lentigines. While both ephelides and lentigines are affected by sunlight, ephelides are more predominantly genetically determined and tend to appear during early childhood, whereas lentigines are only induced by photodamage.

Freckles can appear anywhere on the face or body that has exposure to sunlight. They can vary depending on how prone to them you are—some may naturally develop an entire face of freckles, while others may get only a handful on their nose after a full summer of sun. (Of course, this depends on what type of freckles you have.) They are also usually small in diameter, while dark spots and melasma patches can grow larger. 

Glowing skin is always in—but sun damage? Certainly not. It can come in many forms, each unique in and of itself, so worth explaining the differences. Once you know the differences, you can better treat them.