Behold: The Buzzy Skin Brighteners Coming For Vitamin C's Crown

Confession: I haven't used a vitamin C serum in months.

Nothing against the classic antioxidant! It's beloved for a very science-backed reason! And if you asked me a year ago whether I'd give up my trusty skin-brightening formula, I would have scoffed and shown you my stubborn dark spots. It's non-negotiable for an even-toned glow, I'd say. Retinol, vitamin C, and sunscreen: the dermatologist-approved darlings in skin care.

But derms have recently become more forgiving of routines sans classic C—especially ones that swap in other buzzy skin brighteners.

"Common signs of vitamin C intolerance include redness, itching, stinging, or a burning sensation upon application," explains board-certified dermatologist Ife J. Rodney, M.D., founder of Eternal Dermatology. "Less recognized signs could include small bumps, hives, or worsening of existing skin conditions like eczema or rosacea." 

Some people (like me) can even experience breakouts—in fact, acne was the only symptom I had, which made it difficult to pinpoint what, exactly, was causing this inflammation. I had some suspicions, so I eliminated every potentially irritating active in my routine, save for the vitamin C. Lo and behold, I had found the culprit. 

I suggest committing to a similar "elimination routine" if you think you might be dealing with a sensitivity. Or, as Rodney suggests, you can try a patch test: Apply a small dot of product daily near your ear or underside of your arm, then monitor it for a few days for any changes. Of course, you can also consult a dermatologist for a more personalized read. 

OK, but here's the thing: Vitamin C comes in many derivatives, ranging instability. L-ascorbic acid is the most potent (and unstable) form of the antioxidant, and it's this type that causes the most sensitivities. Other forms include magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, tetrahexyldecyl (THD) ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

Both ascorbyl-6-palmitate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate are stable at neutral pH1, which may make them gentler on the skin. Similarly, "THD ascorbate is less irritating, more stable, and can easily be used in oil-based products," notes board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, M.D. (Feel free to brush up on your vitamin C knowledge here.) 

So, just because you can't tolerate l-ascorbic acid doesn't mean you must swear off vitamin C in general. Again, this is not a scathing review of vitamin C—I adore the collagen-boosting antioxidant. When I stick to gentler, more stable serums, my skin thrives! When I ingest vitamin C supplements (even high-potency, ascorbic acid formulas), my complexion glows! 

Granted, these brightening antioxidants don't have nearly as much data behind them as vitamin C. "Vitamin C plays a unique role in inhibiting melanin production, which contributes significantly to skin brightening," says Rodney. That's not to say these other players won't yield results, but the mechanism behind them isn't as clear—so they may differ from person to person. 

Chlorophyll, you may know, is a pigment naturally produced by plants and algae and gives them their characteristic green color. But were you aware of its significant antioxidant effects2? 

"Astaxanthin is a potent antioxidant, possibly more powerful than vitamin C," says Rodney. (In fact, data shows it's a whopping 6,000 times more potent.) "It can protect the skin from free radical damage, improve elasticity, and enhance skin hydration, contributing to a radiant complexion," she adds. 

Finally, polyphenols (resveratrol, pomegranate extract, and the like) also have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. A 100% pomegranate whole-fruit extract, for example, boasts at least 60% total polyphenols5. 

These polyphenols are major players in the skin aging space, as these powerful micronutrients have been shown to protect your body's cells (including skin) from free radicals, which can lead to premature aging in the skin. "They can help even out skin tone, reduce redness, and protect the skin from environmental damage, promoting a healthy glow," says Rodney.