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Beauty Breakdown: A Complete, Expert-Backed Guide To Face Masks
Think of your everyday cleansers, serums, moisturizers, and sunscreens as the foundation for your skin care routine. Once you've got that routine down, it's time to spice things up a bit by adding extras like LED light therapy, microcurrent tools, and, of course, face masks.
Now, we all love a good face mask on a "treat yourself" day, but here's the thing: Not many people realize that your face mask should be just as personalized as the rest of your skin care. The first step? Education.
Keep reading to find an extensive, savable guide to face masks. Below, the no-no's estheticians want you to steer clear of, which mask is best for your skin type or current concern, and how to take your face mask game to the next level.
The 101 on face masks
Face masks are designed to be a special treat for your skin, used occasionally (or at least, for the most part). Some are quick, rinse-off types, while others work their magic overnight. There's a whole spectrum of options in between, catering to various skin concerns—whether you're after clarity, bounce, gleam, or tautness, there's likely a mask for it.
Beyond the obvious skin care benefits, there's a hidden reason so many people love this step: relaxation. There's just something about slapping on a face mask that makes it feel like you're taking a moment for your well-being, even if you're multitasking, getting work done with a mask in place. Maybe it's the fact that it's a once-in-a-while thing, making it feel special, or perhaps it's because most masks will slide off if you attempt anything other than lying down.
Either way, a mask moment can elevate your self-care game, leaving your complexion thanking you and giving you all the more reason to keep this ritual in your routine.
4 things we're getting wrong
Before we get into the nitty-gritty of ingredients and mask categories, we have to go over some common mistakes and misconceptions from the experts:
- Assuming all DIY masks are safe: Ingredients like honey, yogurt, and aloe vera are just a few of the possible ways to go from fridge to face with success. However, not every edible item at your disposal should be used on the skin. Steer clear of things like lemon juice, toothpaste, and raw eggs, as they can be irritating and cause more problems than benefits they may offer.
- Overusing exfoliants: If you're using an exfoliating face mask one day, that means the rest of your routine should be free from exfoliants. If you overdo it, you run the risk of skin barrier damage.
- Letting them expire: If you don't use your face mask more than once a week or so, it could expire before you reach the bottom of the container. An expired product will be less effective and could even cause irritation, so keep that in mind when digging through your beauty cabinet.
- Not patch-testing them: Like any skin care product, you should be patch-testing your face masks, especially if you tend to react to products. "I always say test the mask behind your ear to make sure you aren't allergic," says celebrity facialist Taylor Worden.
6 types of masks
Now for the fun part—a walk-through of every popular mask category, who it's best for, and who should likely stay away:
Clay masks
First up is clay masks, which are particularly divisive among beauty experts. Typically, these are made from kanolin or bentonite clay and also include hydrating ingredients like oils to help offset the potential drying effects.
Some estheticians like Worden use them to absorb excess oil and "clean up" the pores, while others prefer to skip them entirely. "I am not a fan of clay masks, as most are way too drying," celebrity esthetician Renée Rouleau says.
The message is clear: Clay masks do have their perks, but you need to tread carefully if you're dealing with dry skin. Even if you're on the oilier side, pay attention to the product instructions. As soon as the mask dries down or starts feeling tight, it's time to wash it off.
Hydrating masks
The category "hydrating" is quite broad, and these masks can come in many forms. In general, a hydrating mask will include ingredients designed to plump and soften the skin including:
- Hyaluronic acid
- Ceramides
- Peptides
- Botanical oils
- Plant butters
Some will be more gelatinous (thanks to the humectants like hyaluronic acid), while others will come in a cream form. You'll call upon these masks when your skin is feeling ashy or looking dull to breathe life back into it. You can also utilize these as a way to prep your skin for a big event or recover from a skin treatment.
Plenty of these formulas also contain antioxidants to support a brighter complexion. "Vitamin C is a great brightening ingredient, one of the best you can use," explains pharmacist and cosmetic chemist Benjamin Knight Fuchs, R. Ph.
We know that clay masks have a strict time limit, but that's not necessarily true for solely hydrating formulas. "A hydrating cream mask, on the other hand, can be left for up to two hours," Rouleau says.
Exfoliating masks
An exfoliating mask is just what it sounds like—a skin treatment that's used to exfoliate the skin, leaving your complexion fresh and bright. However, different ingredients are suited for different concerns, so scan the list below to find your most compatible exfoliants:
- Enzymes: "After you apply it, it's like little Pac-Man eating all the dead skin off your face," Worden says about enzymes. These will be gentler than AHAs or BHAs, making them ideal for sensitive skin types. One A+ option in this category is the IMAGE Skincare VITAL C Hydrating Enzyme Masque, which combines both plumping and resurfacing ingredients.
- AHAs: Alpha-hydroxy acids will provide a slightly stronger exfoliation than enzymes, but can still be safe and gentle for sensitive skin. In general, the higher the percentage of AHAs in the mask, the more likely it is to deliver a tingling sensation. If you have sensitive skin, look for gentler ingredients like mandelic or azelaic acid, compared to stronger counterparts like glycolic and lactic acids.
- BHAs: Beta-hydroxy acids are a great option for oily and acne-prone skin, as they dive deeper into the pores. The main BHA used in skin care is salicylic acid, a well-known acne hero ingredient that also provides brightening effects like AHAs. For those with acne-prone skin who aren't keen on clay masks, this is another great ingredient to seek out.
What about at-home peels?
RELATED READ: AHA vs. BHA: How To Find the One for You + Best Products
Sheet masks
Sheet masks, like many skin care products, are very hit or miss. "If you're sensitive, a lot of them have synthetic fragrance additives that can cause irritation or make them less efficient," Rouleau says.
However, some sheet masks come with zero artificial fragrance and pack a punch with skin-soothing additions. If you're searching for a luxurious option, consider the Medik8 Ultimate Recovery Bio-Cellulose Mask—a product gentle enough to be used post-treatment to revive the complexion and foster a prime healing environment.
Sleeping masks
Don't have the time or patience for a face mask? Luckily, there's sleeping masks to save the day. Think of overnight face masks like a super-rich and nutrient-dense moisturizer.
Most of these formulas will be a little too heavy to be used nightly for most skin types, making them a perfect product for those times you need to give your skin some TLC on a time crunch.
“Sleeping masks are good for sustained delivery of active ingredients that provide benefits over the course of several hours,” Fuchs says. Given the directive to leave them on for eight or more hours, you likely won’t find strong exfoliants in these formulas. Rather, they’re packed with emollients to nourish and soften the skin and occlusives to keep that hydration locked during your sleep.
DIY masks
While experts warn against ingredients like lemon juice and toothpaste, not every DIY face mask is dangerous. In fact, there are plenty of kitchen ingredients that can support skin health if you’re seeking benefits on a budget.
Below, a list of some worthy DIY ingredients to consider:
- Honey (my favorite for face mask use is the Manuka Health's Daily Manuka Honey)
- Aloe vera
- Oats
- Unflavored yogurt
- Banana
- Avocado
- Coconut oil (for dry, non-acne-prone skin)
3 extra steps
If you want to go above and beyond, consider the following:
- Red light masks: LED red light masks bring a host of skin benefits like boosting collagen production, easing skin redness, improving skin texture, and overall helping the skin function at its best. These are certainly pricey, but a worthwhile investment for those ready to commit to regular use. Here, our top-pick LED masks for your browsing pleasure.
- Multi-masking: Calling all combination-skin-type folks: Multi-masking is going to be your new best friend. By this, I mean applying one mask to the T-zone—consider a clay mask or BHA formula, and another hydrating mask to the rest of the face. This way, you get the benefits of both and skip the risk of over-drying or over-treating certain areas that don't need it.
- In-office peels: Stronger chemical exfoliation treatments like office-grade peels are out there, but they should be completed at the advice of your dermatologist or esthetician. However, there are more gentle office-grade peels like the Green Peel out there that rejuvenate skin sans acid at all—you can read about that one here if you want to learn more.
The 6 best face masks
Best clay mask: Kiehl's Rare Earth Deep Pore Minimizing Cleansing Clay Mask
Pro
- Combines clay and aloe to clarify skin
- Doesn't feel stripping
Con
- Not the best for dry skin types
Key ingredients:
Fairly Traded Amazonian White ClayAloeThis is a cult-classic product for a reason. The blend of clay with aloe vera delivers a clarifying finish to oily and acne-prone skin but doesn't leave the skin feeling dehydrated after rinsing it off. My suggestion? Use this one on the T-Zone and a creamy hydrating mask on the rest of your skin.
Best exfoliating mask: Renée Rouleau Triple Berry Smoothing Peel
Pro
- Contains a blend of chemical exfoliants
- Helps fade hyperpigmentation over time
Con
- May be irritating for super sensitive skin types
Key ingredients:
Azelaic acidGluconolactoneA blend of AHAsFruit extractsThis one contains glycolic, lactic, malic, mandelic, phytic, and tartaric acids — AHAs that exfoliate, smooth the skin, and combat breakouts and clogged pores. Blueberry, strawberry, and raspberry extracts provide antioxidant support for brighter, more resilient skin. Plus, it makes the formula smell delicious. No wonder countless beauty editors swear by this mask.
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Best hydrating mask: Oak Essentials Restorative Mask
Pro
- Adds radiance to a dull complexion
Con
- Not fit for those sensitive or acne-prone skin
Key ingredients:
Organic honeyAvocado oilSea buckthorn oilLavender oilThis best-selling honey face mask is sure to leave you feeling refreshed and your complexion glistening from afar. Additional soothing ingredients like avocado and seabuckthorn oil are joined by a plethora of flower oils to soften and brighten skin. After using this golden goop, I look like I've just left the facial studio.
Best sheet mask: Medik8 Ultimate Recovery Bio-Cellulose Mask
Pro
- Safe for post-treatment use
- Delivers long-lasting hydration
Con
- Pricey
Key ingredients:
ZincHyaluronic acidRockweed algae extractIf I had to choose a face mask to use before a big event, it'd be this one without a doubt. The ultra-soothing, serum-soaked mask alleviates irritation upon application and leaves behind a bouncy skin texture that truly lasts. Plus, each package comes with extra serum you can save for future use, getting a bang for your buck.
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Best sleeping mask: fresh Floral Recovery Overnight Mask with Squalane
Pro
- Contains vitamin C
- Helps address uneven skin tone
Con
- Fragrance may not be for everyone
Key ingredients:
Passionflower oilPeony extractSqualaneVitamin CThis overnight mask transforms rough, dull skin through the power of rich hydration and natural antioxidants. With vitamin C and a handful of floral and fruit extracts, this rich cream has earned a lengthy list of 5-star reviews from customers with dry, uneven, and texture-prone skin.
Best for sensitive skin: First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Oatmeal Face Mask
Pro
- No artificial fragrance
- Safe for reactive skin
Con
- Some users report the mask is hard to rinse off
Key ingredients:
Collodial oatmealShea butterBisabololSensitive skin types have to be weary of potent exfoliants and loads of fragrance. If this is your mission, consider this select one that checks each box, with additional soothing power from colloidal oatmeal. This is the perfect option to keep on hand for those days your skin feels over-worked.
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The beauty breakdown
Face masks are a worthy cherry on top of a great skin care routine, but they aren't one-size-fits-all. Remember to skip clay masks if you have dry skin, patch test formulas before applying them, follow all directions, and approach DIY ingredients with nuance. Here, even more tips to level up your face mask routine.
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