Bakuchiol: Skin Care Benefits & Is It Really A Retinol Alternative?

It's no wonder retinol alternatives are popping up more and more, but is there any truth to these alleged "dupes"? To follow, we investigate one of the most popular: bakuchiol. 

She adds, "The plant where bakuchiol comes from, the Psoralea corylifolia, is endemic to certain Asian countries such as India and Himalayan regions of Pakistan and China." This wild species has been used in Ayurvedic medicine for centuries, Koestline notes, so it's certainly not new—however, it has gained popularity in the commercial skin care market as of late. 

Unlike retinol, bakuchiol hasn't been extensively researched for topical skin benefits. However, dermatologists and Koestline note a host of promising potential benefits from early research. To follow, a bit more about what you can expect when you add this botanical to your routine: 

For a more in-depth explanation, read on:

"Similar to retinol, bakuchiol stimulates cell turnover," Koestline says. Translation: You shed dead and damaged skin cells at a quicker rate, nipping a dull complexion in the bud. This isn't quite the same mechanism as exfoliation but can be seen as a way to revive lackluster complexions. 

The results: "U.C.-Davis dermatologists concluded that bakuchiol is comparable to retinol in its ability to improve photoaging1 and is better tolerated than retinol," Koestline notes. Read: less peeling, dryness, and scaling. 

Libby notes that bakuchiol can also help encourage even skin tone and texture. For those with hyperpigmentation from sun damage, previous breakouts, or hormonal patches like malasma, this is a benefit worth noting. 

In this 2014 study, bakuchiol was shown to stimulate collagen production (another retinol-like benefit). More specifically, this botanical enhances types I, III, and IV collagen. This is most significant with type III collagen, as that decreases with age and greatly contributes to overall skin elasticity.  

Bakuchiol also has the power to minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles2, says double board-certified dermatologist Tiffany Libby, M.D., FAAD. This happens because of the increased cell turnover and collagen stimulation, researchers suspect. 

It's also important to note that stronger forms of retinol like retinaldehyde and prescription-grade retinoids are often used to treat acne. While bakuchiol may help ease breakouts, it hasn't yet been directly compared to stronger retinoids for treating acne.

However, with all botanical ingredients, you should patch-test your bakuchiol product and wait 24 hours before going in for a full application. 

What's more, you can certainly use the two in the same routine. Below, how to add this purple botanical to your regimen. 

Retinol comes with a strict set of usage guidelines: Only use it at night, skip a day in between if you're sensitive, don't mix with chemical exfoliants, and so on. Luckily, bakuchiol is much more flexible. Here are a few usage tips: 

Long story short: Use bakuchiol as you see fit in your skin care routine. As with any ingredient, be sure to patch-test it first for any allergic reactions. Add it to your morning or evening routine, and use it once or twice a day—the choice is yours. 

However, an increase in recent demand leads Koestline to believe that this ingredient can be sustainably produced at this moment. The bottom line: It may not be fully clear right now how sustainable using bakuchiol in skin care is, but the hopes are high for commercially produced bakuchiol now and in the future. 

Bakuchiol, as we’ve noted throughout this story, is an excellent option for those with sensitive skin. It does not come with the same irritation, adjustment time, or cautions as its retinol counterpart.

If you're sensitive to retinol (check our faves if you aren't), meet the powerful alternative, bakuchiol. This purple botanical extract has been compared to retinol in clinical studies, demonstrating similar benefits without the irritation. Feel free to use it in the morning or evening and mix it with other actives. Want to learn more about retinol and why it works? Check out this guide.