A Full Guide To At-Home Brow Care For Fuller, Thicker Brows

I have always had thin, light brows. The hair color matches my natural color, which is to say a fairly plain brunette. They have a nice arch to them but have never held any fullness. The hairs at the tail are sparse and seem to be getting more so as the years go on. I grew up in the '90s and early aughts, so it was ideal when I didn't have to do a thing while all my friends were begging their parents for tweezers or a waxing appointment. But now? Not so much, as the brow trends of the last several years have favored fullness and thickness. 

But it's not just shifting brow aesthetics. Brow shape and fullness are affected by age, lifestyle, diet, and beauty routines. For example, brow hair fibers become weaker with age—just like the hair fibers on the head might thin or change colors. Or overzealous plucking can lead to scar tissue and gaps over time. Even irritating topical ingredients can affect the health of the brows. 

Brows help define and shape your face. They are, as brow specialist Joey Healey once told me on my podcast, Clean Beauty School, a foundation element. "I believe in the foundations of beauty, which are skin, hair, teeth, and brows," he says. "If you focus on the basics, you can build a routine out from there." 

Within the beauty space, they also occupy a unique category: Part hair care, part skin care, and part makeup. In order to truly take care of the fine little hairs, you need to ensure each step isn't jeopardizing the intercity of the hair fiber or follicle. Don't worry—we'll spend adequate time going over the steps later. 

Brow hairs are like all other hairs on the body in that they are made up of the protein keratin1. Keratin, and all proteins, are made up of amino acids2 (called the building block of proteins). The keratin found in hair is made up of the amino acids cystine, glutamic acid, glycine, leucine, and arginine, and more. 

The hair strand has three parts3: the cortex, medulla, and cuticle. For the purposes of hair care, we typically focus on the cuticle, which is the outermost layer. If you look at it closely (as in with a microscope), it resembles a roof: overlapping shingles that act as a protective layer, while allowing for some absorption. 

Brows thin and lose density with age. Plus, several lifestyle factors can exacerbate hair loss, such as diet, stress, underlying conditions, and external stressors—some of which are entirely out of your control. 

Given what these delicate hairs are up against, I think it's good practice to be proactive about brow growth. Give your brows their best chance at success!

As brow and lash specialist Jasmine Imani, founder of her namesake salon, Jasmine Imani Beauty, says, creating a healthy environment for growth requires some simple care steps: "Take a clean black spoolie and brush through your brows every day. This will provide a gentle exfoliation for the skin behind the hairs," she says, noting that it's similar to how you brush your hair. 

She also loves conditioning the hairs: "I believe in brow conditioners. I see a lot of clients with dry hair, and for them, light oils are your friend. Apply a little castor oil for five minutes as a conditioning treatment." Do this once or twice weekly, depending on your need. 

For added support, gently massage the area while the conditioner is on. This can help encourage circulation in the area, which brings with it hair-healthy nutrients. In one 2016 study, a small number of men received a daily four-minute scalp massage. At the conclusion of the study, the investigators found an increase in hair thickness5.

As for actively regrowing your hairs—that might take a bit more work. "The first step is patience," Healy told us about regrowth. "When patience is not enough, use a serum." 

If you are looking to reshape your brows (meaning: more than plucking a few errant strands), I highly recommend visiting a professional for help. While TikTok filters and at-home video tutorials have made it very tempting to try it on your own, the risk-to-reward ratio does not work out in your favor.

Professionals can analyze your face shape, asymmetries, bone structure, natural shape, and goals to come up with a game plan that's realistic. They can also pick the best hair removal method for your skin and hairs, be it waxing, threading, or tweezing.

If regular appointments aren't realistic, then even booking one for a consultation can help. During this appointment, they can get you on the right track, and then you can mimic their work at home. 

If you can't achieve your desired look naturally, don't worry: That's where makeup comes in! Makeup can help your brows appear thicker, darker, fill in gaps that won't regrow, and help reshape the hairs—non-permanently. I wear brow products most days, and I don't think there's any shame in it. 

Brows deserve to be nurtured and cared for—they are the foundation for defining and shaping the face. And given how many products touch those delicate strands any given day (be it makeup, skin care, or hair growth products), brow care can feel overwhelming.