Are "Skin Age" Scanners Great Or Gimmicky? A Beauty Editor's Deep Dive

The first time I uncovered my skin’s “true age,” I was skeptical. Not because I was unhappy with the result (my skin and I were actually the same age!), but because the experience felt a tad… gimmicky. I was not in a derm’s office but at an editor event sporting a full face of makeup when the machine congratulated me on my youthful appearance—call me guarded, but I left feeling not so convinced. 

I even brought up the dilemma to mbg’s beauty director Alexandra Engler on an episode of Clean Beauty School. “I do think context matters,” she told me about high-tech skin scanners. “There is some decent research that goes into it, but there's a lot of knockoff versions… It's all about if you're seeing somebody who's reputable.” 

The THÉRASCAN facial skin analyzer is a machine that measures the surface and deeper levels of the skin using digital imagery—namely RGB visible light, PL polarized light, and UV spectrum imaging technology—combined with artificial intelligence to give you a snapshot of your overall skin health. This technology has the ability to capture microscopic changes in the skin, including fine lines and wrinkles, pore size, texture, UV damage, moisture, and pigmentation. 

Despite how high-tech that sounds, it’s completely noninvasive. You just rest your chin onto the stand and wait about 60 seconds for the machine to analyze your complexion. The process reminds me of retinal imaging you might receive during an eye exam: easy and totally painless.

“Additionally, it grades an individual’s skin features relative to others of the same age and skin type,” she says. It does tell you your skin’s “true age,” but the nurse practitioner I spoke to said that’s actually the least important aspect of the assessment. Rather than spitting out an arbitrary age, it’s more important to recognize your unique concerns and track their progress over time. I couldn’t agree more. 

Your skin ages as you do, and what a privilege it is! That said, some of the classic concerns that come with skin aging (fine lines, sagging, pigmentation), aren’t noticeable to the naked eye until they become more severe. And those woes don’t happen all at once—they occur slowly over years of UV exposure, environmental aggressors, hormone fluctuations, etc. 

When you receive a THÉRASCAN analysis, the estheticians at Thérapie use your results to develop a tailored treatment plan. “Based on the client’s wrinkle depth, hydration levels, pigmentation spots, [and] acne, our estheticians will create a tailored skin care and treatment plan suited to the main concerns the client has,” says McGlade. 

It’s not necessary to prep before the appointment. However, I did make sure to take extra care of my skin a few days leading up to it (i.e., getting plenty of rest, drinking tons of water, loading up on skin foods), so I’d receive the best results possible. Chances are if I had my skin analyzed after a late night with multiple glasses of wine and salt-heavy foods, I might wind up with a skewed result. 

I placed my face inside the scanner and let the machine work its magic. After 60 seconds, my results loaded on the accompanying screen. 

In addition to the imaging, the machine compares each result to others of the same age and skin type and grades it “poor,” “general” (meaning OK), and “good,” though a “good” is extremely rare. In fact, my aesthetician said he’s never even seen a “good” score before I walked in the room (more on that in just a moment!). 

After cleansing my skin, the esthetician applied a vitamin C-rich mango peel for a few minutes, followed by a hydrating enzyme mask to further brighten my complexion. A few hydrating serums, a layer of moisturizer, and I was out the door. 

Anyone can benefit from a skin analyzer. If you’re curious about your skin’s main concerns and aren’t sure where to start, a quick scan can help you identify the areas in which you should probably pay the most attention. 

Now, is it absolutely necessary? Of course not. If you’re confident in your skin goals, you can go ahead and book any treatment you please without the extra layer of info. For me, the THÉRASCAN only confirmed my biggest skin concerns (pigmentation and moisture), which is certainly helpful. 

That said, it didn’t tell me anything I didn’t already know, aside from the spot of sensitivity on my chin—that I was surprised by! I’m now much more gentle on the chin area, and I have noticed less inflammation and breakouts crop up since.