Arbutin: This Natural Alternative Helps Target Dark Spots + Derm Advice

Of the list of concerns people have about their skin, dark spots tend to come up frequently. And the thing is, dark spots or pigmentation issues come in many forms: post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from scars and acne, sun spots, age spots, and melasma.

When these happen, most reach for a "brightening" product, such as a serum, mask, or cream. Within these brightening products, you'll find several common ingredients, such as vitamin C, lactic acid, and so on. Each of these actives has a unique way of targeting uneven pigment, from exfoliation to neutralizing inflammation. 

One natural ingredient you might see is arbutin. Arbutin is, essentially, a natural variant of the controversial hydroquinone. The latter is controversial for several reasons, like severe sensitivity, irritation, and contamination issues. But most notably: It's been used and marketed as a "skin lighter" for many, many years.

Now, it's one thing to formulate a product to help people fade unwanted dark spots (a valid concern many women have of all skin tones), but it crosses the line when you imply skin tones need to be lightened in general. 

"Arbutin is a naturally occurring compound in the leaves of a variety of different plants, including pear trees and the bearberry plant, that prevents the formation of melanin," says board-certified dermatologist Keira Barr, M.D., noting that the overproduction of melanin in certain areas is what makes up dark spots and melasma patches.

"It functions as a tyrosinase inhibitor to provide skin brightening effects. This happens because when your skin and these cells come in contact with UV light, the tyrosinase enzyme is activated. Arbutin blocks this." 

Arbutin is a widely used skin care ingredient, although it's often paired with other ingredients (like the aforementioned vitamin C and kojic acid) to improve the overall product's efficacy, as by itself it's a fairly mild brightener. 

Another common cause of dark spots is the residual effects of acne and other inflammation. These can leave behind annoying pink, red, and brown spots that take months and years to fade—long after the original blemish is gone. "Because of its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, in addition to benefits of dealing with pigmentation, arbutin has been shown to be effective for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation," says Barr.

"It should be used in the areas of pigment where one is trying to lighten the skin or prevent darkening," says board-certified dermatologist Jeremy Fenton, M.D., of Schweiger Dermatology Group in NYC. So you can use it as a spot corrector (like in the case of acne), in areas where you are prone to sun spots, or it's even gentle enough to use all over.

We've touched on hydroquinone briefly in the intro, but let's further explain the ingredient and why it’s so problematic (it's even banned in the E.U. and South Africa), and why arbutin is the safer alternative. 

It's generally tolerated by most people, given how gentle it is. However, it's always recommended you patch-test first, and then monitor your skin throughout use—and stop if you notice any issues.