Acne Face Map: What Your Skin Breakouts Are Telling You

Here, we explain the idea of face-mapping, including its origins and general beliefs, plus explore the many science-backed ways in which the type of blemish can offer real clues into what's going on beneath the surface. 

"Those who practice acne face-mapping believe that the pimples that form in the same part of your face each month are correlated to an underlying internal issue," explains Devika Icecreamwala, M.D., a dermatologist in Berkeley, California. In ayurveda, the acne face-map is divided into different areas, called zones, each of which signals a different underlying issue, whether it be internal or external.

Another kind of "acne" that appears on the forehead, is something commonly called "fungal acne." However, it's important to know that this isn't actually acne—rather a type of folliculitis (inflammation of the hair follicle) that happens when yeast becomes trapped inside of hair follicles, leading to pimple-like bumps. Read more about fungal acne here.

Redness and breakouts on the cheeks are also a common symptom of rosacea—something that's often confused with acne. If you having been treating your breakouts in the area with typical acne treatments and it hasn't helped, consider visiting a dermatologist who can identify signs of rosacea and offer better treatment solutions. 

"This does not mean that there are hormonal irregularities in your blood," Icecreamwala explains. "It means that your oil glands are more sensitive to hormones that your body naturally produces." The primary hormones thought to incite this type of acne include estrogens, progesterone, growth hormone, and androgens.

Although ayurvedic face-mapping is considered controversial, it is well recognized that the type of acne you experience—whether it be blackheads, cystic, or anything in between—can usually give you clues about why your breakouts are happening as well as what to do about it. 

The key to preventing and treating blackheads is to properly and sufficiently cleanse your skin, including regular gentle exfoliation, which will swipe away those potentially problematic dead skin cells. Oftentimes, for cases of extra stubborn blackheads, dermatologists recommend the use of topical salicylic acid, retinoids, and even extractions.  

Treating whiteheads, and preventing their return, is therefore often focused on unclogging pores—usually with some type of exfoliating cleanser, either physical or chemical. Like blackheads, this overproduction of oil is often tied to a hormonal shift or consuming dairy2. 

Papules and pustules, the stereotypical red-colored blemish you likely think of when you picture acne, is caused when another intruder enters an already-clogged pore. "Pimples and pustules develop when bacteria overgrow in the pores that are clogged with sebum," Icecreamwala explains. Papules often turn into pustules: The former is characterized by red, inflamed, and sore skin. When this red bump forms a white, pus-filled head, its known as a pustule. 

Acne nodules can be thought of as a more severe, and serious, pustule. They form deeper within the skin when the follicle wall breaks and the backed-up debris spills out into the skin. This type of acne is also painful—you'll be able to tell the difference because you'll feel it—and it should always be treated by a dermatologist. 

Often, cystic acne is the result of large hormonal imbalances. Cystic acne should also always be treated by a board-certified dermatologist, and the very worst thing you can do for cystic breakouts is to touch, squeeze, or try to pop the lesions. 

Healing your skin is possible. If you want a full list of glow-boosting recommendations, here are our best skin care tips to follow: It covers everything from diet and exercise to vitamin C serums and what SPF to pick. But if you want to start internally, these five tips are the best place to start:

The type of acne you experience can tell you a lot—including how to treat it and when to see a dermatologist. While the ayurvedic practice of acne face-mapping has yet to be proved by science, when battling breakouts of any kind, we can't help but think that it doesn't hurt to consider all of the potential causes—even those backed by ancient anecdotes.